Pinoy Mountaineer

I am not sure if it can still be called a dayhike, but it was certainly a very long day: Yesterday, my friends and I traversed the Mariveles Range - an inactive volcano - through its crater - from Bagac, Bataan up Pantingan Peak to Brgy. Alas-asin, Mariveles, Bataan coming from El Saco Peak and Tarak Ridge. Joining me were Coby Sarreal, Jeshua Sales, Daryl Comagon, and Koi Grey; we were guided by Kuya Rey, who guided me in Pantingan in 2011 (09282609645).

Highlights of the hike include trekking through the ridges and peaks that comprise the crater rim, descending to the caldera itself with Bakwat River as key feature, and reemerging up the rim through El Saco Peak and Tarak Peak before finally descending via the familiar Tarak Ridge and Papaya River. Totalling 23 kilometres and taking us 20 hours, this hike is visually stunning as it is physically challenging: a hike where beauty and adventure truly coincide.

Mountains are like people: You need to get closer to appreciate their true beauty. This saying is apt for the Mariveles range, which keep getting interesting, the more I explore it. My first hike was in 2007 - an overnight Tarok Ridge - this was before I even started PinoyMountaineer. Back then, it was still possible to spend a summer weekend in the ridge all to yourselves. And then in April 2011 I did the Pantingan dayhike - a novelty then (see Hiking matters #164); on the same year Sky Biscocho led a team that included me and Iron Lady Jo Steven to Tarak Traverse (Hiking matters #187) and Skysam peak dayhike.

These hikes were wonderful, but I would say that the Pantingan to Tarak traverse is, in terms of difficulty and grandeur, on a different register. Now I understand, all the more, why Sky Biscocho says that the Mariveles Range is his favourite hiking destination. The Pantingan-Tarak Traverse has always intrigued me since Jose Barcena and others began posting about stand I'm very glad I finally had the opportunity to do it.

From the Sitio Gabon trailhead of Pantingan Peak, we started trekking at 0400H. From this point one quickly enters a forest with a brief river interlude, then emerging out of the forest into the grasslands known as 'Marlboro Country'. Two hours later we were at Danny's Gate. By night trekking this segment before entering the forest, we managed to avoid what could have been a very taxing leg of the hike when one is fully exposed to the sun - a strategy I also successfully applied in Balingkilat and Cinco Picos.

Since I first did the Pantingan dayhike in 2011, the trail has become much more established. Just like before, I hardly saw limatik. I think in Pantingan, as in many mountains, the presence of limatik is largely dependent on weather; in our case we had exceptionally good weather throughout the hike.

After 4 hours and 30 minutes of trekking we had reached the summit of Pantingan Peak - which I originally recorded at 1388 MASL but now seems to be actually higher, based on two GPS measurements: I am pegging it at 1408 MASL.

We rested for a good half hour or so at Pantingan Peak, before continuing on. In a ridgewalk reminiscent of the descent from Talomo to Basinan campsite, several peaks ensued, including Dagat-dagatan Peak which turns out to be actually a tad higher, at 1418 MASL. We realised that it may actually be the highest peak in the range, that is, the true summit of Mariveles, unless the formidable-looking Bataan peak contests the title.

Past Dagat-dagatan, we passed through a couple more peaks, the last one being 'Mag-asawang Bato', so named after two rocks that sit together on its slopes. We passed through a beautiful viewpoint which offered a view of the crater and the peaks around, some of which are nameless, all of which are surely exciting to explore. We also saw what lay ahead of us: a steep ascent from the crater to El Saco Peak, then a rolling trek to Tarak Ridge. But first, we had to negotiate what would turn out to be a bewildering, almost 500-meter descent to the crater. To be continued in Hiking matters #387.

PANTINGAN TO TARAK TRAVERSE DAYHIKE

Hiking matters #386: Up to Pantingan Peak and the crater rim

Hiking matters #387: Descent to the crater and the ascent to Tarak

The imposing peaks of Mariveles as viewed from the other side of the rim

Continued from Hiking matters #386: We started descending from the crater rim at around 1100H, hoping to have lunch by Bakwat River, on the upper reaches of the crater, which is vast and should actually be called a caldera. Between the rim and the river, however, the forest-covered ravines have to be negotiated - involving an altitude loss of almost 500 meters. It was a great exercise in footwork, balance, and the pick-a-branch game where the loser ends up holding a thorny branch - not a very nice penalty.

Of course, the stakes are much higher in the Mariveles Range. Just last year nine mountaineers got lost, mistaking, from Tarak Peak, the traverse trail to Pantingan for the traverse to Paniquian River. Once you are deep into the range, especially when you are inside the crater, you are at the mercy of the elements. This is what makes the range quite exciting: even though it's less than three hours away from Manila, it gives the sense of wilderness that is not found in other nearby mountains. The descent from the rim to Bakwat River compares favorably with the descent to Basinan campsite on a Talomo-Apo Traverse (see Hiking matters #204).

It was already past 1300H when we arrived in Bakwat river, where we had late lunch. By this time our pace has considerably slowed. We resumed the trek an hour later. The ascent as just as steep as the descent, and at one point Kuya Rey even installed some ropes to assist us in going up. But for all its steepness, the trail is never too overgrown, and there weren't any - making the trek actually pleasant.

Some people speak of 'three rules of mountaineering' which goes like this: "It's always taller than it looks, it's always further than it looks, it's always harder than it looks". These rules came to mind when we were ascending from the crater. Instead of a direct assault to reach the peak, there were lots of ups and downs before the final ascent.

It was already past 1600H when we reached the ridge areas, and at this point, as we emerged from the forests, the view became fantastic: to our left we could look down on the vast crater, and to the right, the view of Mariveles and West Philippine sea. Bataan Peak - from a distant sight ahead - became a towering figure behind us.

At around 1700H we reached El Saco Peak, at over 1300 MASL the foremost peak of this side of Mariveles. We took our final group photo here (see last photo below). From El Saco Peak, it would still be another hour to reach Tarak, and it was already getting dark by the time we reached Tarak Peak.

By the time we reached Tarak Ridge, the scenery was aglow with the city lights of Bataan and Metro Manila. The breeze was cool, but not fierce; there were many stars and the gibbous moon cast a faint glow on the mountain: It was a beautiful evening - one in which I wouldn't mind trekking.

Past Tarak Ridge, we entered the forest which is also quite steep - but is much more established than the rest of Mariveles - lots of branches to hold on to - and is thus almost like a cool down exercise. At one point I took a nap, my head nestled between two large roots - while I waited for my companions. I was well stocked with food, aware of the magnitude of the hike, and I had some snacks at Papaya River - always a nice place to be when in Tarak Ridge.

The trail from Papaya River back to the trailhead felt long - with endless swaths of woodland. But I was reassured when I finally came upon the wide, rough road which signalled the end of the trail. By midnight, we had reached Nanay Cording's place. By the time I had fallen asleep in one of the bamboo benches there, we had been trekking for 20 hours - not my personal record for the longest trekking day (I spent 25 hours in Kilimanjaro and 24 hours in Mt. Ragang), but certainly one of the most exciting ones.

I will make an itinerary for this hike, which is poised to be what MakTrav was in 2008: A worthy challenge that pushes the boundaries of a single day. Thank you to Kuya Rey for guiding us and I highly recommend his services. I also thank my hiking companions for the enjoyable hike. We also remember Sky Biscocho whose devotion to the Mariveles Range has made possible the continued appreciation of mountaineers of the beauty and adventure it so excitingly offers.

PANTINGAN TO TARAK TRAVERSE DAYHIKE

Hiking matters #386: Up to Pantingan Peak and the crater rim

Hiking matters #387: Descent to the crater and the ascent to Tarak

M/V MARIA QUERUBIN - The hike should have started one day earlier, but Tropical Depression Basyang forced us to take a day off at the jumpoff in Olango, San Fernando, Sibuyan. So I spent that day reading books, playing with the local kids, and sleeping in a hammock in a nice hut that Tatay Remy built with mountaineers in mind.

We had come to Sibuyan island to do a traverse dayhike of Mt. Guiting-Guiting. Way back in 2008, I climbed Guiting-Guiting via the traditional route, taking three days (see Hiking matters #2). A year later and in the years thereafter, mountaineers and local guides have established a traverse from the southwest, coming from the town of San Fernando, sparking renewed interest on the mountain. But it is not just the new traverse that made me return; I also wanted to relive the experience of hiking in G2 - one of the most exciting hikes in the country.

Sadly, Martin had to return to Manila, having allotted just one day to attempt the traverse. So the challenge was left to Dan and I, joined by guides Joner and Tatay Remy who would be hiking G2 for the first time since his injury eight months ago. Traversing G2 in one day is not a novelty: it has been done by Koi Grey and Melo Sanchez in 2010 and many others have followed suit. Long dayhikes suit my training needs as they simulate the final ascent of high-altitude peaks, many of which require waking up and starting the hike at midnight - or even earlier (for example, Stok Kangri in India - see Hiking matters #300).

For this particular hike we set the departure time at 0200H and we started on time, reaching the Olango river by 0230H, Camp 1 by 0400H, Camp 2 by 0530H, and Camp 3 by 0640H - this is where we had our breakfast. The trail was immediately steep, and understandably so: starting virtually from sea level, we had to gain over 2000 meters in several hours. It was a nice mix of rock slopes interspersed with rhododendrons, and pockets of forest.

Past Camp 3, we continued the hike up the rocky slopes, and reached the crash site soon after - a nice viewing deck for the sea, the southwest part of the island, and the morning sun. The slopes were also visible - the scene was reminiscent of the approach to Mantalingajan's summit.

We continued on, taking the trails that are also comparable, albeit much steeper, with those of Apo from Lake Venado. We passed through Mt. Sibuyan - a more eastern peak of Mt. Guiting-Guiting (which should actually be thought of a range, like Mariveles). With the clouds beginning to obscure everything, we didn't have the appetite for more sightseeing and instead focused our attention to continuing the cadence of the peak.

By 0915H, Tatay Remy announced that we had reached the 'Peak of Deception' - not to be confused with the original PoD on the traditional trail (for which I think it is a more apt monicker). Less than fifteen minutes later, at 0928H, we reached the summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting, 2058 meters above sea level. Continued in Hiking matters #389.

GUITING-GUITING TRAVERSE DAYHIKE
Hiking matters #388: Olango to G2 summit
Hiking matters #389: Knife Edge to Mayo's Peak and down
Hiking matters #390: Sidetrips in Sibuyan

At the summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting, 2058 MASL

M/V MARIA QUERUBIN - Continued from Hiking matters #388: I was very jubilant upon reaching the summit of Guiting-Guiting, all the more because I knew that more challenges lay ahead, more reasons to be excited about the hike. If the G2 traverse dayhike can be likened to one of my favorite anime, I'd say that Kenshin has yet to fight Shishio. まだまだだね!

We resumed the trek at 1000H. A few minutes into the traditional trail, the so-called '90-degree' rock formation is the literal and metaphorical gate to the rock-filled adventure that continues unabated until one reaches Mayo's Peak. In the traditional trail, this is the finale - the gauntlet before the victory. In 2008, we aspiring G2 climbers were first inducted into the lore of the mountain, and this 90-degree obstacle seemed the scariest. But as with many things, what sounds impossible usually becomes doable when you're already there.

Past the '90 degree' wall follows what I consider to be the most challenging part of the crossing to Mayo's Peak - a series of precarious rock formations requiring descending with the utmost care - there is always the possibility of stepping on the wrong rock, or slipping: the jagged edges of the rocks aren't exactly the best place to land your knees or elbows. It is also "slippery when wet' - which we experienced for ourselves. Still, it can be a very enjoyable experience. As long as you're sure with where you're steeping on and what you're holding onto, you can descend without worries.

The next named segment of the trail is the Peak of Deception. It is truly a deceptive sight for hikers coming from the traditional trail - by the time you reach that point part of you would like to wish for the summit to be at hand, only to find out that the true peak is still 45 minutes to an hour away. From the Peak of Deception to Mabel's spring (which is actually just a tiny trickle of water from the rocks, if at all) the same character of the trail continues.

Beyond Mabel's spring, however, it gets easier: The "Kiss the Wall" segment is a breathtaking turn around one of the rock faces, then a few more peaks - called 'Camelbacks' because they resemble the hump of a camel. From here onwards, the comes the Knife Edge, which I consider to be the most scenic and beautiful portion of the trail, but also one of the easier ones - lots of rhododendrons to hold onto, and the slope is mostly even. Still, G2 is full of surprises - hands and feet en garde!

Mayo's Peak then emerges - it truly looks like a peak from the Knife Edge - and although without tall trees it is difficult to estimate how tall it is, it requires a good half hour from the base of the Knife Edge to its peak, which marks the end of the 'technical' part of G2. Indeed, one can breathe a sigh of relief upon reaching this 1500-meter peak. In our case, we also had lunch.

This forest, far from unremarkable, is described as one of the most biodiverse ones in the whole country and if I had more time I would have paused to look for nice insects, or orchids, or even birds - just as I did in Mt. Halcon last year. But I was also eager to reach DENR before nightfall, so, save for brief stops in the three 'Camps' we marched past the forest with relative ease.

The forest ends in the river, where one can have a glimpse of the jagged peaks of Guiting-Guiting, with Mayo's Peak on the right. To my knowledge these saw-toothed peaks haven't been climbed yet, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time before some intrepid souls pursue it. It's just a thirty minute walk from the river to DENR; by 1830H we had finished the trek; we can thus clock the hike at 16 hours 30 minutes, which I think is good enough.

There will always be a question of whether the traverse is more difficult than the traditional trail; the answer would depend on a hiker's strengths and weaknesses. Those not used to steep, continuous ascents would find the traditional trail easier. Those who dislike the acrobatics of the Knife Edge would find the straightforwardness of the traverse convenient. So while I prefer the traverse (I think all things being equal it's always better to traverse than to backtrack), I think that in terms of difficulty I will have to go against the grain and opine that there is no significant difference between the two- both are challenging and deserving of the 9/9 rating.

In any case, I think the key to climbing G2 is managing two frames or mind. The first is concentrating in every step and never letting your guard down. But this the second is not getting overwhelmed, but instead enjoying every step, every movement, as if one were in a playground. Ultimately, it is not a question of whether one survived the mountain, but whether one enjoyed it, and found the experience meaningful and memorable. This, I guess, can be said of all mountains.

Six years ago, returning from my first Guiting-Guiting hike, probably aboard this same ship, I promised to myself that I would return. Now, having returned, I make the same pledge, and I look forward to another exciting and enjoyable time in the realm of the mighty Guiting-Guiting, doubtless one of the best hikes that our beautiful country has to offer.

Aboard the M/V Maria Querubin (Magdiwang-Romblon)
February 3, 2014

GUITING-GUITING TRAVERSE DAYHIKE
Hiking matters #388: Olango to G2 summit
Hiking matters #389: Knife Edge to Mayo's Peak and down
Hiking matters #390: Sidetrips in Sibuyan

MT. GUITING-GUITING/TRAVERSE (2,058+)
Sibuyan Island, Romblon
Entry point: Sitio Olango, San Fernando, Sibuyan Island
Exit point: Brgy. Tampayan, Madgiwang, Sibuyan Island
LLA: 12°24'50"N, 122°34'4"E, 2058 MASL
Days required / Hours to summit: 10-18 hours / 2-3 days (excluding travel)
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 9/9, Trail class 2-5
Features: Knife-edged rocky trails, rock bouldering/scrambling, tropical forest

BACKGROUND
Guiting-Guiting has always held a lofty place as one of the most challenging hikes in the Philippines, owing to its dramatic trails that pass through the thin, jagged rocky ridges that characterise the mountain. In 2009 and onwards, intrepid hikers and local guides led a sustained effort to pioneer and establish a trail from the southwest that connects to the summit in a relatively straightforward ascent - effectively creating a "Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse" that requires either three days up the ridges, or a very arduous dayhike.

This page is supplementary to the main Mt. Guiting-Guiting article, and covers the practicalities for a Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse. Please see more information in the main article.

ITINERARIES

THREE-DAY G2 TRAVERSE

Day -1
1330 Take bus from Manila to Batangas port
1600 Arrival at Batangas port
1700 ETD to Romblon (either Romblon or Odiongan)

Day 0
If arriving in Romblon, transfer to M/V Maria Querubin to Ambulong
If arriving in Odiongan, take jeepney to San Agustin, then the Querubin to Ambulong
1100 Arrival at Ambulong. Early lunch at the port
1130 Proceed to DENR for registration/briefing
1200 ETA DENR
1300 Head to San Fernando, Romblon
1330 Optional sidetrip: Lambingan Falls
1600 ETA San Fernando, Romblon. Buy supplies
1700 ETA jumpoff (Sitio Olango)
1900 Dinner

Day 1
0500 Wake up call / Breakfast
0600 Start trekking
1200 Lunch at Camp 2
1300 Resume trek
1600 ETA Camp 3. Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0400 Wake up call
0500 Breakfast / Break camp
0600 Start trekking
0700 ETA Crash Site
1100 ETA G2 summit / Early lunch
1200 Resume trek
1300 ETA Peak of Deception
1330 Mabel's Spring
1400 Kiss the Wall
1500 Knife Edge
1700 ETA Mayo's Peak. Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 3

0600 Wake up call
0700 Breakfast / Break camp
0800 Start trekking
1200 Lunch at Camp 1
1300 Resume trek
1400 ETA river / Wash up
1500 Arrival at DENR. Proceed to Bagumbayan Beach House
1600 ETA Bagumbayan. Check-in / settle guide fees
1800 Dinner / post climb celebration

Day +1
0800 Wake up call
0930 Proceed to Ambulong port by tricycle
1000 Take M/V Maria Querubin to Romblon or San Agustin

Day +2
0300 ETA Batangas port. Take bus back to Manila
0600 ETA Manila

DAYHIKE

Day -1
1330 Take bus from Manila to Batangas port
1600 Arrival at Batangas port
1700 ETD to Romblon (either Romblon or Odiongan)

Day 0
If arriving in Romblon, transfer to M/V Maria Querubin to Ambulong
If arriving in Odiongan, take jeepney to San Agustin, then the Querubin to Ambulong
1100 Arrival at Ambulong. Early lunch at the port
1130 Proceed to DENR for registration/briefing
1200 ETA DENR
1300 Head to San Fernando, Romblon
1330 Optional sidetrip: Lambingan Falls
1600 ETA San Fernando, Romblon. Buy supplies
1700 ETA jumpoff (Sitio Olango)
1900 Dinner'

Day 1
0200 Start trekking
0400 ETA Camp 1
0600 ETA Camp 2 / Breakfast
0800 ETA Camp 3
1100 ETA G2 summit
1230 Lunch at Mabel's Spring
1300 Resume trek
1700 Arrival at Mayo's Peak
1800 Dinner or heavy snack
2100 ETA DENR Station. End of trek
2130 Proceed to Bagumbayan Beach House
2200 ETA Bagumbayan. Check-in / settle guide fees
2230 Late dinner / post climb celebration

Day +1
0800 Wake up call
0930 Proceed to Ambulong port by tricycle
1000 Take M/V Maria Querubin to Romblon or San Agustin

Day +2
0300 ETA Batangas port. Take bus back to Manila
0600 ETA Manila

PRACTICALITIES: GUITING-GUITING TRAVERSE

Transportation	(1) Bus to Batangas Port – P170 (2) Batangas Port to Magdiwang via Odiongan or Romblon (Daily departures at 1700H; arrives in Ambulong Port at 1000H the next day) - P1400-1500 total. (3) Ambulong port to Olango jump off - P400 per person by tricycle; cheaper if renting a jeep with more people (4) DENR jumpoff to Bagumbayan beach - P75 per person by tricycle (5) Bagumbayan beach to Ambulong port - P20 per person by tricycle (6) Return ferry and bus trips same as above. Note that daily ferry leaves Ambulong at around 1000H (ETA 1300H Romblon and 1430H San Agustin); Romblon and Odiongan ferries leave for Batangas at 1700H (7) If connecting from San Agustin to Odiongan by jeepney, fare is P120
Registration	Logbook, waiver, and registration form at DENR Station, Brgy. Tampayan. Total fees per hiker P300
Guides	Available: 2400 per guide regardless of hiking duration (1-3 days); 1800 per porter. 1 guide and 1 porter required for every three hikers. Note: Allot additional fee for guides' transportation
Contact numbers	DENR (Andy Regla) +639284901038 Guides (Remy Rebiso) +639217322462
Campsites	Usual campsites include Olango Camp 3, Mayo's Peak, Traditional Camp 3 and 2.
Water sources	Olango River (2 kms from entry point); Mabel's Spring (irregular; past Peak of Deception); Bulod's Spring (more regular; past Mayo's Peak). Anticipate unavailability during peak season and thus bring 4 L
Cellphone signal	Present in most parts except Knife Edge and Mayo's Peak area (Smart > Globe)
River crossings	Minor crossings at the beginning of the traverse trail; bigger stream 45 minutes from exit point; usual precautions apply
Roped segments	None but some segments from summit to Mayo's Peak requires extreme caution and possible assistance
Limatik	Yes - minimal (near Camp 3 of traditional trail)
Lipa	Yes - minimal
Rattan	Yes – minimal
Sidetrips	Sibuyan Peak – 3 hour detour from Camp 3 (Traverse) but not sanctioned by DENR; waterfalls and rivers within the park
Alternate trails	There are other possible traverse routes but not permitted by DENR as of 2014
Dayhikable	Yes (7-10 hours to summit; 8-14 hours from summit to exit point)
Estimated budget	6000-7000

MT. GUITING-GUITING TRAVERSE PICTURES

View of Mt. Guiting-Guiting from the Olango trailhead

With Tatay Remy Rebiso, the lead guide of the traverse trail, while having
breakfast at Camp 3 of the Olango trail

The beautiful ridges of the traverse trail (Feb 2014)

The blogger at the summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting (Feb 2014)

TRIVIA
With many hikers taking part in the efforts to establish a Guiting-Guiting Traverse, acknowledging all of them is not an easy task. As early as the 1980s, mountaineers have attempted to traverse G2, with attempts from clubs such as UPM. But the successful traverse did not come until 2004 when a group of DENR personnel performed the traverse. A year later, a AMCI-led group became the second group to the traverse. In Holy Week 2009, two groups, led by Kat Ocol and Emman Palacio, respectively, initiated the latest spate of interest on the traverse, followed by a succession of many others, including Benj Magkalas. In 2010, Koi Grey and Melo Sanchez became the first to do the traverse as a dayhike.

The blogger revisited Sibuyan island to do a Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse on February 2, 2014. This hike is narrated in Hiking matters #388-389.

by Gideon Lasco,
PinoyMountaineer.com

The news of the death of 14 passengers in a bus mishap in Bontoc, Mountain Province is a big tragedy that should not be forgotten. It is not just that we lost Alvin "Tado" Jimenez, a friend of the environment and the mountains, whose gift of laughter and joy our country will sorely miss. It is not just that two foreigners were among the victims and surely the incident will be mourned in their countries accompanied by a loss of trust in our tourism infrastructure. And it is not just that we lost the 11 other passengers whose lives were equally valuable.

It is also because at the heart of the tragedy are violations of the law. License plates getting switched, chassis numbers tampered with, and buses that are unregistered for commercial use: these are not mere acts of negligence, these are deliberate acts. By tinkering with the identity of their buses, they have made themselves impervious to the last resort or safety: inspections that could have detected faulty engines, misaligned wheels, and other factors that could precipitate an accident. With Anakpawis Rep. Fernando Hicap, we also wonder why the regulatory system, particularly the LTFRB, has failed to oversee the safety of these bus operations.

It is faulty logic to argue that these regulatory violations have nothing to do with the accident. Accidents do happen, but if buses are ill-equipped and not properly registered and inspected, if bus drivers are not trained and disciplined, then they are accidents waiting to happen. There was no typhoon or landslide to precipitate the recent accident. Even if there were unforeseen circumstance, we deserve the best effort, the best chances of survival, when things go wrong.

Mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts take public buses every weekend. One can go to Cubao and Pasay on Friday nights and see the congregations of mountaineers in the terminals of bus companies.The Manila-Bontoc route is taken by those going to Mt. Napulauan, Amuyao, and more. By virtue of our numbers, we are at risk in these kinds of accidents with every week that the LTFRB fails to regulate and these companies fail to comply. We, as customers - in fact as one of the biggest groups of passengers in many routes - have the right to demand for better services. Safety should be the most fundamental service rendered.

Needless to say, what is at stake here is not just the safety of mountaineers, but of all our loved ones, our fellow travellers and passengers.

As hiking grows in popularity, the safety of mountains have come under scrutiny, and the recent tragedies involving hikers have received media attention. But for as long as the roads are far more dangerous than the mountains, our basic mountaineering courses, our safety practices, will be powerless to prevent the tragedies that can happen even before we can set foot on the mountains. This is why we should take a strong stand against negligent bus companies and call for an overhaul of the regulatory system that engenders these unfortunate events.

View of the steep face of Low's Peak, where a German hiker fell to her death
on February 10, 2014.

by Gideon Lasco

PinoyMountaineer.com

It is always a sad thing whenever an accident happens in the outdoors, and I am very sorry to hear about the accident in Mt. Kinabalu two days ago when a 22-year old German hiker, Viktoria Paulsen, fell to her death from the summit. The manner of her death is troubling; according to the New Straits Times, "[S]he was taking photographs from around the peak of the mountain (Low's Peak at 4,095m) when she slipped and fell." Other reports mention that she went over the roped fence that was installed to protect hikers, presumably to get a better view.

The summit of Mt. Kinabalu usually gets crowded early in the morning because the hike is programmed in such a way that everyone starts from Laban Rata more or less at the same time (around 2:00-3:00 am), and many are eager to reach the summit to await the sunrise. But as a result of the 'crowd' at the top, it is difficult to get unobstructed shots, and oftentimes you only have a few seconds to pose at the summit. I can surmise that it is this situation that prodded Ms. Paulsen to go over the fence.

***

NOWADAYS, photography has become a crucial - even integral - part of our lives. Social media has allowed us to document and broadcast our everyday experiences by capturing them through photographs, and this idea of sharing has affected the way we go about our activities. A reunion or party with family or friends is not complete with the group shot at the end; and of course the photograph is not 'fulfilled' without its being posted, liked, commented on, and shared. People share photos of the things they buy, the people they meet, the places they see, and even the food they eat. The visual has replaced the verbal as the primary means of narrating our lives.

This has also been increasingly true of hiking: There are group shots, jump shots, macro shots (of the flora and fauna), summit photos, and of course, selfies. With so much beauty in the outdoors, the incitement towards photography is very understandable and justifiable.

When you are in the mountains, however, there are some things that are difficult to capture. Occasionally, a beautiful bird or insect would appear in front of you, then disappear before you can even get hold of your camera. Or, clouds would suddenly give way to an awesome view, only to obscure everything again, leaving a picture only in your mind. When you have just finished descending down a rock face and see your companion doing the same, you might think: "Wow, this would make a great action shot!" but when you snap your camera the image ends up blurred. And we say: "Sayang!"

Pangs of regret are always there, but sometimes we refuse to leave it at that. Many of us are tempted to intervene in order to make the picture better - even if it requires us to "rewind" our hike, climb up a tree, or go to a precarious rock formation. Hiking photography becomes problematic - and at times risky - when we refuse to settle for anything less than perfect view, or the perfect pose. One dramatic example: in 2012, a hiker in Alaska was killed by a grizzly bear when he got too close in his attempt to take photos of the animal.

In two accidents in 2013 reminiscent of the one in Kinabalu, a hiker fell to his death while taking photos in a mountain viewpoint in the US, while a female hiker in Toronto was posing for a photograph when she fell off a cliff in Mount Nemo. Closer to home, in 2012, when first-time hiker Diana Fajardo fell to her death in Mt. Batulao, she was reported to have been taking pictures.

What can we learn from these tragedies?

First, I think that we should really be cautious with hiking photography, whether we are on the summit or on the trail; we should also inculcate this sense of caution to those who are novices. In the same way that texting while driving can lead to road accidents, photography while hiking can lead to outdoor mishaps, if the camera lens diverts our eyes to the more pressing things we need to see - like a protruding branch or a slippery stone. Even just holding your camera can be a liability, in situations when your hand can serve you best by being there for balance or protection. Taking photos (or posing) in precarious parts of the trail should be avoided, mindful that precarity is both absolute and relative: there are absolutely dangerous parts, and there are also parts that can be easy for experienced hikers but potentially dangerous for beginners.

Second, we should respect and follow rules. The existence of those roped fences are an explicit and obvious appeal to hikers not to trespass them, for their own safety. There are many reasons to be discontent or dissatisfied with the authorities but when people's safety is at stake we should never second guess measures like "Do not enter" or "Do not pass". They are there for a reason.

Finally (and more philosophically), I think we should re-examine the way we experience the outdoors in relation to our felt need of capturing and sharing each moment. It is very nice to let others know about the beauty and adventure we experience - I obviously do this a lot - but from time to time, we should seek to liberate ourselves from the need to share the moment, and instead allow ourselves the more introspective way of capturing the beauty and the experience of the outdoors: unaided by any instrument. Our eyes are still the best lenses through which we see the world. Any human being can attest that the best moments in our lives cannot be captured by the camera.

***

ONE mistake - even if it is a fatal mistake - should never be used to judge a person's life and I write these thoughts with deep sympathy for Viktoria Paulsen's family and friends. In a sense, her death is metaphorical of all forms of deaths in the outdoors: People go to the mountains to get a better, unobstructed view of the world, and in doing so, they make themselves vulnerable to what others might see as unnecessary risk - a risk that may translate to dire consequences. The consolation is that, whatever fate befell them, they were in pursuit of something they believed in, something they wanted to do.

Still, we should always try our best to make hiking as safe as possible. One day after the Mt. Kinabalu incident, the Sabah government spoke of plans to review park rules of regulations. Ultimately, however, we must also recognize the responsibility of individuals. We are all very familiar with the admonition to "take nothing but pictures." But we must also remember that taking pictures is only secondary to taking care of one's self.

At the Melkas Ridge, the scenic highlight of the MakTrav (Sipit) trail
of Mt. Makiling from Sto. Tomas, Batangas

LOS BAÑOS, LAGUNA - Having grown up in its shadow, I consider Mt. Makiling my home mountain, and for over a decade now I have made it a point to climb it at least once a year. Today I am glad to have fulfilled this tradition, with Agot Isidro joining me - her first climb since hiking up Gunung Batur in Bali, Indonesia last year.

We relatively had a late start from the Sipit Trail jumpoff (Sitio Jordan, Brgy. San Vicente, Sto. Tomas) - 0830H. As an additional safety measure, I asked for a guide - Tatang Jun - to accompany us. Later, when I felt more confident with our performance and the weather conditions, I let Tatang Jun come home so he will not end up in faraway Los Baños.

After a gradual meandering through Stations 1 and 2, the trail picks up its incline as we headed towards Station 7- the junction between the Sipit Trail and its predecessor, the now-defunct Palanggana Trail. After a rest stop at Station 7, we continued up the ridge, which has moderate gradient, until we reached Palanggana Peak, after which the trail mellows down a bit towards Melkas campsite. Notably, there are many more ropes now to assist hikers.

By 1130H we had reached the start of Melkas Ridge, and we took the customary photo beside Haring Bato - the towering rock from which the ridge commences. During rainy season from this part onwards one should begin to expect the coming of the limatiks, but fortunately only saw one limatik throughout the whole hike. The fixed ropes are still there and are really a big help and comfort for those doing MakTrav in the first time, or those hiking in bad weather.

Melkas Ridge concludes in Peak 3 - a small flat peak surrounded by grass - and we reached it before 1200H. After sending off Tatang Jun we continued onwards through the up-and-down (at least two minor intermediate peaks), obstacle-laden trail from Peak 3 to Peak 2. It is still exciting, but it is now much easier compared to its condition in 2007-08, when it really lived up to the name 'Wild Boar trail'. We reached the summit at 1310H.

Ten minutes later, we began the descent. At the onset, one can palpate the difference between the narrow Sto. Tomas and the wider, well-established Los Baños trails. With a wooden ladder at the previously exciting '90 degrees' and other implements, it has really become a nice jungle trek, a nice cool down from the traverse trail - with caveat that it can still get muddy and limaticky (Don't look up this word in Webster!).

By 1500H, we had reached the Nursery/Mudspring area - where stores sell buko juice. Not wanting to extenuate the hike in rocky road that can feel monotonously endless, we agreed to the locals' offer of habal-habal to take us down the UPLB trailhead. After a brief swing by UPLB for carabao yoghurt, we called it a day - a nice hiking day - and by 1600H I was home.

For more pictures and updates, follow my adventures on Instagram and Twitter at @gideonlasco!

PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MT. MAKILING

Hiking matters #238: My first Maktrav attempt

Hiking matters #48: The barely explored Peak 1 of Mt. Makiling

Hiking matters #73: Maktrav

Hiking matters #94: MakTrav Friendship Climb with OGKL

Hiking matters #217: Regular holiday, Regular Makiling

Hiking matters #235: It's nice to do the Maktrav again!

Hiking matters #236: ....and again!

Hiking maters #342: Mt. Makiling via the New Sipit Trail
Hiking matters #390: Sipit Trail revisited

Mt. Halcon in May 2013

Citing the need to standardize procedures for mountaineers, the municipal government of Baco, Oriental Mindoro, has effectively closed Mt. Halcon until further notice. According to Koi Grey, who was at the jumpoff on February 16, his group was not allowed by the barangay captain to continue with their hike, citing an order from the mayor. On appeal to the municipal LGU, they were likewise refused. It turns out that the mountain has been officially closed since November 2013; thus it would appear that it only officially opened for seven months (April-Oct. 2013). However, it is possible that this new moratorium may have just been recently implemented.

The closure of Mt. Halcon was confirmed to PinoyMountaineer.com by a local official in Baco who also told us over the phone today that the Sangguniang Bayan (town council) will take up the topic of Halcon next month (March). Asked if there is a plan to reopen Halcon, the official replied: "Call us again in March -- maybe there will be news by then."

This development is bound to affect hikers who have planned on doing the Halcon hike this summer - which would have been the first summer in 9 years when the mountain would be open. Halcon was closed by the DENR from 2006 to 2011, and when the moratorium has been lifted, it took two more years before the local government either gave permits or allowed hikers to proceed 'at their own risk'. Many groups were able to hike from April 2013 onwards, but this spate of hikes will have to be put on hold, at least for now.

PinoyMountaineer.com welcomes updates from hikers and local officials. If you have updates about Halcon let us know so we can share the information to the mountaineers.

Last Saturday I had the opportunity to return to Mt. Talamitam, an easy hike a bit further than Mt. Batulao in the same road coming from Tagaytay. Joining me from Los Baños was travel blogger Journeying James - with whom I have several hikes already - as well as Karina Gadong and Sheena Halili. My Mt. Elbrus teammate Niel Dagondon and his wife Nicole caught up with us along the trail, together with their golden retriever, Buddy.

Accompanied by the teen guide Kenneth, we started trekking at around 0615H and the sun had just risen, casting a amber glow upon the bare soil that (unfortunately) characterises the mountain. It is very advisable for hikers to have an early start in Talamitam, otherwise it can get scorching hot, having

The trail is straightforward, and easy to follow - you can see the mountain right ahead of you, and the trail menders right through the slopes that are part barren, part grassy. Unfortunately, the cows and carabaos don't practice Leave No Trace - but they are otherwise harmless, and adds a bucolic feel to the mountain.

We were lucky that it was windy when we were hiking, mitigating the heat - and the summit assault now feels more manageable and established than before. By 0800H we were at the summit, enjoying the view of Batulao and Pico de Loro which were opposite each other. It was Buddy, their golden retriever, that provided joy - and photo opportunities - to our group and the mountaineers we met.

Altogether it was a nice hike. I was tempted to go to Batulao for a Twin Dayhikes but opted for a healthy lunch in Tagaytay instead (I'm dropping the bulalo tradition); by mid-afternoon James and I were back in Los Baños. Greetings to everyone we met along the way!

PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MT. TALAMITAM
Hiking matters #133: Twin Dayhikes - Talamitam and Batulao
Hiking matters #266: A verdant Mt. Talamitam
Hiking matters #391: A morning hike up Talamitam

by Gideon Lasco

PinoyMountaineer.com

For me, a good hike for a beginner is one that is easy, rewarding, and safe. By easy, I mean the trail is short enough (around 5 kilometres) and doesn't have any difficult obstacles, river crossings, or roped segments (except for parts when ropes are supportive but not necessary). By rewarding, I mean this must a mountain that has a beautiful trail, or beautiful views either at the summit or on the way. By safe, I mean it should be well-maintained, with personnel that can respond to emergencies, with cellphone signal in most parts of the trail. Other considerations include distance from Manila - you do not want to make your first-timers weary with a long travel time.

These are by no means not the only mountains that you can choose for first-timers. Actually, most day hikes around Manila with Difficulty 4/9 or less can be recommended. However, since "What is the best hike for beginners?" is a question that has confronted me many times, I decided that it's time to come up with my own suggestions. I have arranged these hikes according to difficulty and the time it takes to complete the hike.

BEST HIKES FOR BEGINNERS NEAR MANILA

1. Mt. Manalmon (Biak-na-Bato N.P., Bulacan)

Why it's good for a beginner: It is one of the easiest hikes to do that's near Manila; the whole trail can be negotiated in less than an hour and most people complete the whole trail - a nice rest at the summit included - in just over 2 hours, 3 hours at the most. It is not steep at all, and the views at the rocky peak are rewarding: the hills and woodlands of the Biak-na-Bato National Park as well as a distant but majestic Mt. Arayat. It also features a cave and a nice river so it's has extra dimensions to the 'outdoor experience'

The challenge: Beginners should be assisted when entering and trekking in the cave, as well as when scrambling up the rocks at the top. However this is really an easy hike and most people should find it as such.

How to climb it: Visit the Mt. Manalmon page in PinoyMountaineer.com

2. Mt. Maculot (Cuenca, Batangas)

Why it's good for a beginner: The views at the Rockies are unparalleled for such an easy and short hike, providing a refreshing and rewarding culmination of a first hike. If you want to convince your girlfriend to hike mountains with you, this is a good place to start: make sure you take nice photos of her at the Rockies. It is also a proper mountain, in the sense that there is a "peak" to be reached, and a trail that's relatively straightforward. There are rest stops along the way and the trail is not confusing.

The challenge: The woodland and grassland hike to the campsite can feel steep for someone not used to hiking, so it's important to take it slowly. The scramble up to the Rockies can be done by children, but caution must be exercised and the beginner must be warned that the rocks can be slippery; and their heads can hit the rocks above them.

How to climb it: Visit the Mt. Maculot page in PinoyMountaineer.com

3. Mt. Batulao (Nasugbu, Batangas)

Why it's good for a beginner: Mt. Batulao gives the beginner a feel of what hiking is all about: winding trails, an imposing summit that looks far at the beginning, but is actually within reach in a matter of hours. There are enough rest stops, and much of the trail offers rewarding views.

The challenge: It can feel too hot at times, or too muddy at the start, and there are narrow or steep portions in both the New and the Old trails, so the beginner should be oriented properly, and advised to concentrate on the trail. It is also longer than Maculot and Manalmon.

How to climb it: Visit the Mt. Batulao page in PinoyMountaineer.com

4. Pico de Loro (Mts. Palay-Palay / Mataas na Gulod N.P., Cavite)

Why it's good for a beginner: Pico de Loro has a lot of nice things: Well-established trails, nice forests, breathtaking views at the peak, and the unique formation of the Parrot's Beak or 'Monolith' that can be an optional reward for those who enjoyed the hike. Even experienced hikers love Pico de Loro!

The challenge: First timers in Pico de Loro get confused with the trails especially going down (past the first campsite, there is a fork in which you have to make a left turn, counter-intuitively, because the wide trail goes on). If you're bringing first timers make sure you know the way. The trail can also feel long relative to Maculot or Batulao.

How to climb it: Visit the Pico de Loro page in PinoyMountaineer.com

5. Mt. Makiling (Los Baños, Laguna)

Why it's good for a beginner: Mt. Makiling is not a very popular choice for a first mountain, I think it is a good choice. Especially now that it's becoming easier to start from the Nursery, it is a very manageable 3-4 hour trek going up. Because it's almost completely forested, beginners won't easily get drained with the heat, and the trail is well-maintained by the forest rangers. Though the summit is also forested and doesn't have views, there are parts that offer a glimpse of Laguna de Bay and lakeshore towns of Laguna. What will enchant the beginner here is the loveliness of the forest, not the views.

The challenge: It can feel too long and the 600-meter altitude gain from the Nursery may be too much for some, but most people with average physical fitness can manage Makiling. The soil can get a bit slippery at the top, and beginners may freak out with limatik (leeches) but there's always the first time for everything.

How to climb it: Visit theMt. Makiling pagein PinoyMountaineer.com

ENDNOTE

What to pick among these choices? It depends on the people you want to bring. For those who are not active, or you think are likely to get tired after just an hour of hiking, it might be better to bring them first to Manalmon or Maculot. For those who are athletic, those who regularly run or engage in other sports, Batulao and Pico de Loro are good choices. Foreigners and people who like forests would enjoy Makiling very much.

Even though these mountains are relatively 'easy' and can be done by beginners, they should never be underestimated. Always be sure to orient first timers about the basic principles in mountaineering. Importantly, they should be told not to leave their trash behind. Before doing the hike make sure they have all the necessary gear, enough food and water, and even if it's a dayhike, make sure they have headlamps. They should also have fully-charged mobile phones and emergency contact numbers, including numbers of the other members of the team.

YOU KNEW it was tough, but you never expected it to be that tough. You thought that because you had already climbed so many mountains with ease, you would just march your way up every mountain that comes your way. And there you were, in your dream mountain, high above the clouds, with the summit in front of you.

But suddenly, you find it difficult to breathe. Every step becomes painful. The cold becomes oppressive to your nostrils. Your body throbs, no longer with excitement but with anxiety. Suddenly, you are not even sure if you can continue.

***

No matter how strong or experienced we are, there will come a time when we will face a difficult situation. It may be on the mountains, as when we reach our limit, or in our everyday lives, when we encounter predicaments like losing a loved one, or suffering an illness or an accident. Even the easiest mountain can get difficult during a storm, and even the toughest guy, when he gets sick, becomes feeble. We change all the time. We are not perfect. Whenever we embark on something like an expedition - or a life project - we strive to put our best foot forward; the best of who we are, but there are times when this would not be enough.

It is not a sunny day that a mountaineer must prepare for. It is a storm. Ironically this is difficult to do when all we've had thus far is sunshine. Sometimes, a blessing becomes a curse when we have too much of it. Sheltered by God from sorrow and pain, what do we do when He finally decides it's time for us to face a trial? We must muster the full repertoire of our emotional and mental powers if we are to remain standing amidst a storm.

If you face a difficult situation, the immediate task is to make an assessment. Are you just panicking? How far are you from your goal? The most important thing to consider is your own safety. Are you really okay? Remember the time-honoured saying: "Getting to the summit is optional. Getting home is mandatory." When summit fever sets in, the first casualty is the ability to think properly. And the ultimate casualty can be yourself. But if you realise that you actually have enough energy to push onwards, by all means, press on. Think next of the tactical moves you need to make things more manageable. A sip of hot water can do so much for a parched throat. A properly-worn balaclava can give so much comfort, and properly-tied shoelaces can make a mountain of a difference. In mountaineering, as in life, little things matter.

Mountain climbing is a test of mental strength. You cannot always say that the spirit is willing but the body is weak. It is the willingness of the spirit that gives strength to the body. Our feet can only take us one step at a time. But our spirits can take us to the highest mountaintops, and the most distant lands. They have formulated all kinds of energy gels and bars for the body, but faith is the best trail food for the soul. The first step in reaching the summit is believing that can you make it there.

The long term goal is to evaluate what happened. Did you wear the right gear? Was your training enough? This may be a hard question, and you may not readily admit the answer, but you should nonetheless ask yourself: Did I underestimate the mountain? That, however, will be for another time.

***

You press on, slowly and cautiously. You realise that by taking it one step at a time, you can actually make progress. Every step is still a pain, but it’s a pain that you now realise is something you must bear if you are to reach the summit. You think of how far you’ve come just to get to this point, and this inspires you to go on.

You think of all the people expecting you to reach the top, waiting for the good news. They add an layer of anxiety. What if I fail them? It will be embarrassing, you think. But they are so far away and you are brought back to the immediacy of your struggle. The prospect of dying, of losing a limb, or of having to be evacuated, is a far worse fate.

In the end, you realise that your life is precious and you shouldn’t risk it for your pride. You still press on, but you are prepared to go down if it gets any harder.

***

What is the reason why you climb? Is it all about aiming for achievements? If so, the summit would be mandatory and it will be difficult to accept failure. When we put our pride at stake, we stand to lose more than what we need to. Humility is not for the weak. It is merely the recognition of who we really are. Strength that comes from humility is the strength of a old bonsai tree whose roots run deep in the ground.

Of course, striving for the summit is a valid goal. But it must be with the proper attitude. Glory, honour, fame? A mountaineer craves not for these things. Climb for fulfilment, not achievement. Fulfilment is personal, and it involves finding meaning not just in the success of the summit, but in the trials of the trail; the joy and beauty in every step. Sometimes, in pursuit of the destination, we forget how beautiful the journey is. Remember, there is more to mountain than its summit, just as there is more to life than our career goals, or our dreams. This is what the mountain should teach us.

Do you climb for the acclaim of others? In this age when people can follow you online, there is the seduction of fame. Do you get numerous 'likes' and a plethora of comments from people saying how good you are? Never let these approbations obfuscate the reality of your humanity; of your vulnerability to the elements, of your finite physical and mental reserves. The support of others can give your strength; the thought of your loved ones can inspire you. But do not let others' expectations pressure you. And more importantly, do not let them define your experience of the outdoors. As one wise climber said to me once: "Let them push you, but never let them pull you." There in the white or grey expanse of rock and ice, it is just you and the mountain.

No one else but you can decide when it’s time to turn back. There will be no doctor to evaluate your physical fitness, no Reinhold Messner to decide on your behalf. Remember, a good mountaineer not only knows how to go up, but when to go down.

***

Finally, after much effort, you reach the summit. You can’t believe it. You are so happy. But instead of shouting for joy, you are left speechless, and feel the tears streaming down your face. Instead of raising your hand in victory, you clasp your hands in prayer. Your teammates are all around you, taking your pictures. You manage to smile, and hold the flag. But deep in your heart, you know that something has changed. Something was going on in your heart. It was more than a climb. it was a struggle. Defeat was almost there, but you fought it. You did your best, and you succeeded. But you feel humbled.

There will be a time to celebrate the summit. There will be a time to reflect, and to relive the moments you’ve just gone through. But for now, you are concerned about going down, about mustering enough strength to safety. Suddenly, instead of the summit, your dream destination is home.

***

You did not conquer the mountain. The mountain conquered you. And in the process, you have learned a lot about the outdoors, about life, and about your own self. Congratulations.

Gideon Lasco

Los Baños, Laguna

March 7, 2014

LETTERS TO A YOUNG MOUNTAINEER

I: A letter to a young mountaineer

II: Why do accidents happen?

III: Of doing and loving

IV: A difficult situation

MARTIGNY, SWITZERLAND - After a short visit last November that saw me doing three hikes with Everest climber Leo Oracion and Iron Lady Jo Steven (see Hiking matters #376-378), I returned to Switzerland yesterday, flying from Amsterdam to Geneva, and today I did a nice hike, once again with these two amazing individuals - a loop from Gueroz (670m) to Charavex (1445m) in Martigny, the current town of residence of Leo and his family.

It is already springtime and Leo said they had fantastic weather in the past two weeks. Jo Steven, had been ski touring the whole time, couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, the weather turned for the worse this weekend: it was a cloudy when we started the hike at 1000H, and raining by the time we reached Charavex. Still, the fact that we were starting the hike right from Leo's house meant that we didn't need to worry too much about getting wet.

The trail was immediately pleasant and enjoyable; I realised I haven't done substantial hiking recently and was glad to be outdoors. Marked with red and white blazes, the hike starts on pine forests with rocky trails, passing through some nice walls with bolts that indicate climbing activity. Then when it first emerges from the forest, it offers a view of the valley - including the famous Gueroz Bridge - and the gorge that separates Gueroz from Salvan.

We reentered the forest. The pines were majestic, and joined by occasional hollies and oaks; it reminded me of the trail up Snow Mountain in Taiwan, past 369 Hut en route to the summit (see Hiking matters #211). There were also parts of the trail that were very reminiscent of Mt. Sicapoo (Hiking matters #130). Interestingly, when we were in Mt. Sicapoo, Jo Steven also commented that it reminded her of Switzerland!

Upon reaching 1200m we encountered snow - and all the way to Charavex we trekked through snowy - and sometimes precarious - trails. The risk of avalanches and rockslides is very real in Switzerland, especially during these liminal periods between seasons. The rain made the snow slushy and a bit slippery; and the menacing rocks above us seemed to be just waiting for an excuse to slide down the mountain. These sections however were short and for the most part we enjoyed the trail.

We had lunch - gruyere, baguette, strawberries- in Charavex, which turned out to be a charming mountain village; albeit desolate at the moment: it doesn't become a populated village until summer, when it serves as a retreat with stunning views of the valley. From Charavex, we descended through the forests; the trails milder this time, hitting the rough road that took us back to Gueroz. It was a nice day of hiking and I thank Leo once again for the hospitality, and to Jo for coming all the way from Bern just to hike with us.

HIKING IN SWITZERLAND (SPRING 2014)
Hiking matters #392: Loop hike from Gueroz to Charavex
Hiking matters #393: Snowshoe hiking up Mont Noble

MARTIGNY, SWITZERLAND - After the nice loop hike yesterday from Gueroz to Charavex (see Hiking matters #392), today Filipino Everest climber Leo Oracion took me to the Commune de Mont-Noble in Valais to climb Mont Noble (2673m), a mountain in the Swiss Pennine Alps. Famous for skiing, it is also a popular hike, and in this time of the year, one that is eligible for snowshoeing. Classified as WT3, a "challenging snowshoe hike" by the Swiss Alpine Club, I knew that it would make for a very interesting day.

We started at the village of Nax, near the telepherique that transports the many skiers that have congregated there for the weekend - at around 1400 MASL. It was snowing when we began the ascent up the ski slopes - and the trails beside it. It got colder as we went higher - and it was subzero to begin with!

Because of the cloudy/snowy weather, much of the trail looked pretty much the same - and we didn't have any views to enjoy, still, the snowshoeing was fun - even though everyone else seemed to be happy with their skis. The extensive ski slopes reminded me of the acclimatisation hikes we did in Mt. Elbrus - sans the pine trees.

As we went higher, the trails got steeper and it became more challenging to hike our way up the layers of snow. We reached the summit at 1415H - amid forceful winds and moderate snow. The wind brought a sudden chill and I was nearly overwhelmed with the cold - I had to pull out my down jacket to keep me warm - and even then we couldn't stay at the summit for long. My camera battery was floundering, but fortunately Leo managed to take one shot of me at the summit marker. He quips: "This reminds me of my Everest summit - there was no view!"

The descent, thankfully, was brisk, and once we were out of the summit ridge there was no chilling wind. Instead, the skies opened up a bit, revealing a view of Valais and the nearby mountains. Not quite a summer day where you can see - they say - even the Matterhorn. But I cannot be happier with the hike!

By 1710H we were back the parking lot and thirty minutes later I was buying Franziskaner and 1664 beer for a proper celebration. Thank you Leo for this exciting hike and for the words of wisdom! I look forward to our next hike!

HIKING IN SWITZERLAND (SPRING 2014)
Hiking matters #392: Loop hike from Gueroz to Charavex
Hiking matters #393: Snowshoe hiking up Mont Noble

This version of the 'Guiding Document' was discussed during the second meeting with the DENR on April 2, 2014.

STATEMENT OF PURPOSE
In the same spirit as the International Coastal Clean-up Day and in response to lack of awareness about the importance of clean mountains in the country, the National Mountain Clean-up Day (henceforth, NMCD) is envisioned to be a annual reminder to the public of the importance of having clean mountains, as well as a set of simultaneous activities organised by different groups that will clean up mountains and other natural areas in different parts of the Philippines.

SCHEDULE AND VENUE
The NMCD is scheduled to be first held on May 10, 2014 and is envisioned to be held every year in the first or second week of May, after the peak season of hiking activities (i.e. Holy Week and the summer months) and before the rainy season. The venues are are the mountains and areas with hiking activity that are both within and outside the designated Protected Areas by the government.

ORGANIZATION

1. At the national level, the lead proponent/s of the project will be coordinating the initiative in partnership with the Department of Environmental and Natural Resources through its relevant agencies. The local events however will be organised by different groups.
 
2. A Volunteer Corps will be organised to facilitate communication, information dissemination, and coordination with the different groups. The Volunteer Corps will have an orientation on April 26 and will also organise their own clean-up climb together with the project proponent.

3. The organisers of each of the clean-up climbs will be assembled in one Internet group through a suitable social media platform in order to disseminate information, together with the project proponent, members of the Volunteer Corps, and partners.For climb organizers, please click this link to access the Facebook group for the NMCD.

4. There will be a designated coordinator for each clean-up climb who will be responsible for the participants and the conduct of the hike and the clean up. All coordinators must have basic mountaineering skills and must have experience in organising hikes.

PARTICIPATION

1. Any hiking or outdoor club, civic organization, or group of individuals may join the NMCD. Groups are at liberty to select their target mountain for clean-up. However, there may not be several groups doing a clean-up in a single trail or area.

2. Participating groups are responsible for the safety and well-being of their participants.

3. Every group must have a designated coordinator.

4. The coordinator for each climb must make sure that his participants are sufficiently fit to participate in the activity, have sufficient mountaineering skills and experience, knows what to do in case of emergency, and is aware of the Leave No Trace principles. If a participant is below 18 years of age, parental consent must be secured.

5. The maximum number of participants per group is 18. However, this is just a general guideline. The policies set by the mountain authorities (i.e. PASU, ENRO, barangay officials) take precedence over this guideline.

6. The organising party will coordinate with the Protected Area Management Board through the Park Superintendent. If the mountain is not a protected area, the organising party should instead coordinate with the local government unit in charge of the mountain. The following should be endorsed and consulted:
a. The number, names, and contact information of participants
b. The itinerary of the hike
c. Areas that will be cleaned up
d. Emergency plan
e. Waste disposal plan

7. In case there are several groups seeking to hold clean-up activities, the Park Superintendent will determine the maximum number of participants for each group, as well as how the groups will be divided according to target areas of clean-up. In mountains not falling under protected areas, should designate a lead coordinator for the clean-up efforts for the particular mountain, and discuss beforehand to designate particular areas to be cleaned by each group.

8. In protected areas, the Park Superintendent will designate the designated waste disposal facility. For other areas, the DENR will provide advice at the national level while the participating groups will also coordinate with the relevant LGU on where the garbage will be disposed.

9. All participants must treat every clean-up climb as a regular hike and thus they must have contingency plans, designation of tasks (i.e. lead, sweeper, medic). Importantly, every team should have a first aider who can respond to injuries like cuts that may be caused by picking up garbage.

10. Participating groups should feel free to organise other activities concurrently with the clean-up, including, but not limited to community outreach, dialogues and lectures about Leave No Trace principles, among others.

GARBAGE COLLECTION AND DISPOSAL

1. For the purposes of this section, garbage is defined as any material that was brought by humans to the mountains and does not serve any useful purpose. Common garbage in the mountains include various kinds of plastics, glass bottles, cans, any form or piece of paper, cloth, or any other material left by humans. All forms of garbage should be collected from the campsites, trails, peaks, and other areas of interest.

2. Participants will be advised to use garbage bags to collect the trash. Each participant should try to fill one or two garbage bags depending on the number of trash on the trail. The bags must be of sufficient thickness to withstand being transported through the trail. If in doubt, consider using two bags for double thickness. Biodegradable, environment-friendly garbage bags are preferred.

3. Participants should wear rubber gloves or equivalent for sanitary reasons, as well as to protect themselves from possible cuts or injuries from sharp trash like bottles. Special precaution should be exercised when handling glass shards as well as opened tin cans, as their edges can cause injuries.

4. Participating teams should consider bringing other tools such as a hand trowel that can assist in retrieving buried cans, glass, and other forms of garbage.

5. The sweeper, or the last person in the group, must ensure that no trash bags are left behind, and that they are not left in huts, rest stops, not even in the trailhead, regardless of the existence of trash cans there. Only the designated waste disposal area should be considered. If necessary, groups should transport the garbage with them to a point where proper waste disposal is assured.

6. At the designated waste disposal facility, the groups should measure the weight (i.e. in kilos) and volume (in number of bags) of the garbage they were able to collect. In the absence of a designated waste dis

7. In cases where locals would demand that participants leave the garbage in certain places, like campsites, participating groups are encouraged to abide with the chain of waste disposal as long as this can be done amicably.

FEEDBACK
In order to improve on future clean-up days and also to guide future clean-up activities, participating groups will be requested to report the following:
a. Actual number of participants
b. Areas where garbage was found
c. Weight and volume of garbage collected
d. Problems and challenges encountered
e. Personal/group reflections on the activity
f. Recommendations for the next NMCD
g. Status of the mountain
h. Photos of the mountain

PAIYUN LODGE, JADE MOUNTAIN - We are now all set for the summit assault tomorrow! At 3405 MASL, the cabin where we will spend the night is perched on lofty altitude, and in a perfect spot from which to assault the 3952m Jade Mountain, the highest in Taiwan.

I am of course very excited to climb Yushan. This is my sixth hiking trip in this country - after Holy Ridge, Cilai Ridge, Snow Mountain among others - but the opportunity to climb its highest peak has eluded me. For one, they have a complex process of raffling out permits, making it difficult to even be allowed to hike (this, though, is a good way of limiting the number of participants and should be considered for Pulag). Secondly, this lodge was renovated for two years - making access even more restricted. So it's really a great blessing that I'm finally here.

In this trip I am joined by Singapore-based Pinoys Tyrone Nanad, Dada de Silva, Kenneth Valencia, and as well as JB Cunanan, Tita Rios, and Joel Grande, making for a team of 8. There would've been more, but due to the raffle, another part of the group didn't make it, and they instead climbed two rewarding peaks as part of the Nenggao Historic Trail.

We left Taipei for a lodge near the trailhead at 1600H yesterday, and, after a long, Baguio-like drive, arrived at 2300H, leaving plenty of time to rest. The next day, after breakfast, we started trekking. The trail starts off on a saddle that offers a great view - the starting altitude after all is 2400 MASL. We caught a glimpse of the spring blossoms, specks of white amid the evergreens that cover the mountains.

The trail was very gradual. We had lunch past the 5 kilometer mark, in a covered pavilion. Thrushes and squirrels, not unused to human presence, would lie in wait for breadcrumbs and rice, as in Mt. Kinabalu. The trail doesn't really get steep, though some of it passes through ravines so one must always concentrate. The forests - pine, spruce, juniper - were lovely, reminding me of Snow Mountain's Black Forest. Something Filipino hikers are bound to notice are the wooden planks and staircases, metal chains, bridges - all sorts of implements to make hiking safer. The artificiality of it make some anathema to some but they actually make less impact to the environment and minus.

We arrived here at Paiyun Lodge at 1400H, allowing us to have a siesta before an early dinner, and now we,re back to our bunk beds again. As in the eve of many summit assaults past, many thoughts fill my mind and writing about the day's adventure helps me calm down. As the organizer, I want everyone to reach the summit but Tita already said she would just rest - a decision that I respect. I think reaching this altitude is already a nice accomplishment for everyone and we can always go back and better prepare for the next time.

It is still raining here at the lodge - and likely snowing at the peak. One of the Taiwanese hikers commented that it feels like winter: indeed, it did, especially during our siesta when we really felt the cold on a visceral level. This reminds me of one of my favorite Basho haikus:

First cold winter rain /
Even the monkey seems to want
a tiny raincoat.

Though we are prepared for the snow, I do hope that we will have good weather tomorrow so that we will have great views and we will all be rewarded. But whatever happens, this has been a fun trip. I've always said that the we must enjoy every moment of every hike. Still, the summit awaits. What wonders - or perils - will it reveal for us tomorrow?

Paiyun Lodge, Jade Mountain
April 4, 2014

JADE MOUNTAIN (玉山) - SPRING 2014
Hiking matters #394: From Tataka trailhead to Paiyun Lodge
Hiking matters #395: Ascent to Yushan Main Peak
Hiking matters #396: Back to Tataka trailhead

BLUE MOUNTAINS, AUSTRALIA - Continued from Hiking matters #394: The stars were heralds of good news, and the promise of a beautiful day ahead. We woke up at 0230H, had breakfast at 0300H, and then set off for an ascent of Jade Mountain's main peak, at 3952 MASL the highest mountain in Taiwan - and for that matter, the whole of Northeast Asia - making it one of the three mountains in the 'Asian Trilogy' along with Mt. Fuji (see Hiking matters #16) and Mt. Kinabalu (Hiking matters #254, among others).

With only 2.5 kilometers of trail and 550 meters of altitude to gain, it was a relatively doable challenge, but spring snow can be tricky, especially after the bad weather we faced the day before. Still, we were very optimistic when we started the assault.

Surprisingly, the trail was easier than it looked on the map - at least at first. The switchbacks made gentler what would otherwise but a direct ascent. At face value, 550 meters is just the vertical distance between the Ranger Station and Mt. Pulag summit; but make it 1000 meters higher and you have snow, less oxygen, and subzero temperatures.

The sun rose as we were ascending. It brought to realisation the promise of good weather, as it illuminated the South Peak of Jade Mountain, and the other high peaks of Taiwan's Central Mountain Range.

The pictures of the trail in the final 500 meters do look dramatic- and for good reason, not least of which is the perilous incline of the slopes. However, there were metal chains to hold on to, and the snow was not really deep, so it was still fairly manageable.

I am very thankful that I brought my full crampons - the one that I bought in Kathmandu and used in Mt. Elbrus - which allowed me greater traction (and confidence) in the snow. The park authorities actually require everyone to have crampons - even half-crampons would do nicely. Some overeager hikers were actually wearing crampons from the start of the ascent, even though there wasn't snow yet!

We reached the summit at 0624H, and it was a majestic sight: snow-capped peaks, the beautiful colours of dawn, and distant mountains, pale blue, in all directions. I've been to over a dozen summits in Taiwan but not all of them greeted me with a view; in Snow Mountain we were met with rain, and in Sumida Mountain we were met with foreboding clouds. But in Jade Mountain, I was blessed with my most beautiful summit view in Taiwan, to date.

Everyone who did the summit attempt made it, and I was very happy with the performance of the whole team. Later on, some of them would say that they found Jade Mountain colder than they expected. Indeed, temperatures can drop very quickly in the high mountains, which is also why the rising of the sun is always welcome - it brings not just light, but warmth. To be continued in Hiking matters #396.

JADE MOUNTAIN (玉山) - SPRING 2014
Hiking matters #394: From Tataka trailhead to Paiyun Lodge
Hiking matters #395: Ascent to Yushan Main Peak
Hiking matters #396: Back to Tataka trailhead

BLUE MOUNTAINS, AUSTRALIA - Continued from Hiking matters #395: At the summit of Jade Mountain, it was magical: Snowcapped peaks illuminated by the glorious morning sun rising above blue skies. As the team leader of the hike, I couldn’t ask for more. As I told them, it was probably the best view I’ve seen after six hiking trips in Taiwan. Unfortunately, we had no time to loiter around the peak; it would still be a long day ahead. Aside from the 11-kilometer descent, we would have to endure the long drive back to Taipei. A more pressing concern, however, is the snow, which could fast melt as the sun rises. Wet snow is of course slippery, and could unsettle some rocks above us.

The descent, however, was pleasant, taking us just half the time it took us to ascend. Back at Paiyun Lodge, a second breakfast of noodles was served - coupled with some really tasty milk tea. Tita Rios was fully recovered and was in high spirits, even though she still wasn’t able to sleep. We packed our bags and began the descent at 1000H. With the weather considerably better, we took the time to take pictures. Slopes of dwarf bamboo with the snowcapped peaks at the background; misty pine forests; and rock-strewn stretches of mountain slopes emptying into a vast wilderness: these and more comprised the visual feast.

By 1400H we were done with the trek, and our guide took us to a sumptuous sampling of Taiwanese dishes - and unlimited rice. The long ride to Taipei then commenced, but it was no longer a bore since I created a wireless hotspot - and everyone was all too eager to share the good news of our successful ascent.

Now I am back in Taipei, and excited about my rituals in this city: Having milk tea at Ximen and visiting the kaiten-zushi place that serves great (and very cheap) sushi, a final look at the outdoor shops, and others. These little things make me realise that it is ultimately every traveler that creates attractions for himself.

Jade Mountain was such a great hike and we had formed a great team, which is why I feel sad that the trip has come to an end. I’m very thankful to every member of the team for the positive energy. I must also add a complement to the Taiwanese people we’ve met; they’ve all been very nice to us. I remember in 2011, during our first trip, a Taiwanese woman even drove us to the trailhead after we mistakenly dropped off the wrong place. The hikers were all very helpful, and showed a genuine concern for our welfare. For all the geopolitical conflicts, at the individual level, all men truly have the potential to be brothers, good neighbours, and friends.

After six hiking trips and over a dozen mountains in Taiwan, I am eager for more. I look forward to hiking Nanhu Mountain, Bei Da Wu, and many others. I hope my Jade Mountain teammates can join me again!

JADE MOUNTAIN (玉山) - SPRING 2014
Hiking matters #394: From Tataka trailhead to Paiyun Lodge
Hiking matters #395: Ascent to Yushan Main Peak
Hiking matters #396: Back to Tataka trailhead

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - Yesterday, I did the hike up Mt. Kosciusczko, at 2228 MASL the highest mountain in Australia and as such, arguably (and per the Bass List) one of the Seven Summits of the world. Although it was a very easy hike (my grandmother can do it), every mountain is special, and having come all the way from the Philippines to do it and having faced some unexpected challenges to get there, it turned out to be an exciting adventure.

Getting there proved to be an obstacle much more difficult than the hike itself. This is partly because we were doing the hike off-season and since it was also the school holidays, there was no way to get to Thredbo, the jump-off point. To the rescue was my Nepalese friend Surendra, and his buddy Pravash, who decided to join us and do the long drive to the Snowy Mountains. Joining me in Australia was my brother Jonathan - he’s not really into hiking but has done Kinabalu and some PH mountains - as well as my Mt. Elbrus teammates Jun Carnate, Koko Roura, and Cynthia Sy.

We stopped over at Canberra- a three-hour drive from downtown Sydney- spending the night there before proceeding to the Snowy Mountains the following day. We took a wrong turn and ended up taking all of five hours to reach Thredbo! Originally, we had planned to do a longer hike passing by Charlotte’s Pass, but since we were running late, we had no choice but to take the chairlift up the shortest route, which is already 1900 MASL and just 6.5 kilometres long.

By the time we started hiking, it was past 1400H. The hike was truly easy; the slopes were gentle and there was even a steel footpath for most of the way. But the scenery was beautiful! There is a feeling of vastness when you are in the Snowy Mountains, with endless mountains in all directions; but it is a subdued majesty, not like the dramatic heights of the Alps or the Himalayas. We are

After two hours the summit was already upon us, and I was raising the Philippine flag by 1607H. A stone altar marks the summit, with a tiny metal plate that inscribes it as Australia’s highest point. We all made it, and Surendra and Pravash unfurled the Nepalese flag, celebrating the Nepalese New Year, which coincided with our hike.

On the way back, with the chairlft closed, we descended all the way to Thredbo via Merrits Nature Trail, adding 4-5 kilometres to our day’s walk. So in total we did 17 kilometres. Even though we were trekking in the dark, at least we were able to somehow maximise the trip by having an extra two two hours of hiking.

Back in Thredbo, we drove to back to Sydney, this time taking the correct road. It was another epic drive, but several hours (and several kangaroo sightings later) we were back in the familiar environs of George St. in Sydney, where we are staying now. To put things in perspective, the distance between Sydney and Kosciuszcko is like Manila to Camarines Sur, so we were really thankful to Suren and Pravash for doing the drive. Of course, we could have driven ourselves but as in the UK, they drive here on the opposite side of the road so it’s complicated.

I am really happy that I was able to do Mt. Kosciusczko. It will surely give me inspiration to pursue the Seven Summits, well aware that there there is a very long road that lies ahead. But like the journey from Sydney to Kozzie, the journey is bound to be fascinating. There will certainly be kangaroos along the way.

BLUE MOUNTAINS, AUSTRALIA - Here we are in the famed Blue Mountains of Australia - a World Heritage Site that features vast landscapes of blue mountains and valleys; dramatic cliffs and rock formations, countless waterfalls, and endless possibilities for adventure. After the successful Mt. Kosciusczko hike, we had a rest day which we spent sampling the Shirazes and Semillon Blancs of Hunter Valley. Then the following day we took the two-hour train ride to Katoomba, where we planned on staying for three days. Then we immediately headed to Echo Point to see the Three Sisters - the most famous attraction of the Blue Mountains.

The next day, we walked down Katoomba Road again, this time heading to the trailhead to Katoomba Falls, where we started our bushwalking trip. The visual rewards were immediate; we were once again in front of the vast panorama of the Blue Mountains - which reminded me of the Grand Canyon (see Hiking matters #311).

The trails were well marked, and also well established, with steel ladders and footpaths safeguarding the precarious parts. Still I liked the cliff-side walks, especially those with overhangs. The amazing thing with the hike was the variety of sceneries we went through. It wasn't purely just cliffs and rocks, though that would have been exciting in itself. We also passed through some nice forests, seeing kangaroos, colourful parrots, and many other birds - not to mention interesting trees like redwoods called turpentines.

With no summit to train our minds on, we relished every bit of the trail. After a descent from the town, the Federal Pass itself is a more gradual walk on the base of the cliffs which include the Three Sisters. Past a beautiful woodland called the Leura Forest, the trail ascends again, this time through more waterfalls and rock formations.

From the Leura Cascades we headed back to Katoomba, this time via the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which again offers a unique kind of scenery: the trees are different from the ones below. Back in town we headed to some of the outdoor shops, and wrapped up the day with a nice dinner. Thank you Dr. Jun Carnate and Cynthia Sy for being with me in this memorable adventure Down Under! I'm looking forward to one last day of bushwalking tomorrow!

Hiking matters #386: Mariveles Range (Pantingan Peak to Tarak Ridge) Traverse Part 1 - Pantingan Peak

Hiking matters #387: Mariveles Range (Pantingan Peak to Tarak Ridge) Traverse Part 2 - To Tarak Ridge

Hiking matters #388: Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse Dayhike Part I: From Olango to G2 summit

Hiking matters #389: Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse Dayhike, Part 2: Across the Knife Edge to Mayo's Peak and down

Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse (2,058+)

Viewpoint: Safety of public buses a big concern for mountaineers

Viewpoint: Hiking photography and a tragic death in Mt. Kinabalu

Hiking matters #390: Makiling Traverse dayhike - Sipit trail revisited

Mountain News (Feb 2014): Mt. Halcon is closed again

Hiking matters #391: A morning hike up Mt. Talamitam in Nasugbu, Batangas

PinoyMountaineer picks: Best hikes for beginners near Manila

Letter to a young mountaineer, IV: A difficult situation

Hiking matters #392: Loop hike from Gueroz to Charavex in Martigny, Switzerland

Hiking matters #393: Snowshoe hiking up Mont Noble (2673m) in the Swiss Alps

Guiding Document: National Mountain Clean-up Day on May 10, 2014

Hiking matters #394: Jade Mountain / Yushan (玉山) Part 1: From Tataka trailhead to Paiyun Lodge

Hiking matters #395: Jade Mountain / Yushan (玉山) Part 2: Ascent to the main peak

Hiking matters #396: Jade Mountain / Yushan (玉山) Part 3: The descent from the summit / Postscript

Hiking matters #397: The hike up Mt. Kosciuszcko, the highest mountain in Australia

Hiking matters #398: Blue Mountains bushwalking Part 1 - Federal Pass from Katoomba Falls to Leura Cascades