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Hiking matters #371: Pico de Loro dayhike

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One week after our beautiful Maculot hike (Hiking matters #369), Sheena Halili and I organized another dayhike, this time of Pico de Loro. We were joined once again by Japs Grande and Koi Grey, as well as our Halcon buddy Daryl Comagon, Sheena's colleagues Luis Alandy and Gwen Zamora, and my Los Banos kabayan, acclaimed travel blogger Journeying James. I am leaving for Europe today and I'm very happy that this hike pushed through, despite the threat of habagat which drenched the metropolis the previous days.

We rendezvoused in Naic, Cavite as it was the meeting point between the Metro Manila people who took CAVITEX, and those of us from Laguna who took Governor's Drive from Carmona. We arrived at the DENR Station at 0845H, registered there (P25/person), and started trekking by 0900H. After a slow start, we hiked at a more upbeat but still relaxed pace, enjoying the forests along the way.

Arriving at the campsite where a second 'registration' used to be collected, the compromise I did was to make a donation to the people there since some of us used some of their facilities (benches, toilets). From there, we trekked through the gradual trails that pass through a couple of streams, before entering the dense forest. Luis lost no time in briskly assaulting the forested trails, accompanied by guide dog Manny.
We arrived at the saddle campsite at 1230H, taking a pseudo-lunch break to wait for the others, and we reached the summit at 1340H. Rains came and went, but fortunately, at the summit we were blessed with a clearing that allowed - even if for a short while - nice views of Parrot's Peak towering above the clouds, overlooking the southern towns of Batangas and Cavite.
Fortunately we did not have to turn on our headlamps for by 1800H we were back at the DENR station. A very nice postclimb dinner at Lolo Claro's in Maragondon ensued - I recommend this for everyone climbing Pico, Mt. Marami, or Mt. Buntis! Thank you, Sheena, for organizing this hike with me and I look forward to climbing with you again soon together with Japs, Glen, and Luis! To Koi, Daryl, and James, thanks for accompanying us in this dayhike! Hanggang sa muli!
 

Open letter to parents: Allow your child to climb mountains

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by Gideon Lasco

Dear Mr. and Mrs. Cruz,

I am writing this letter hoping to convince you to allow your son to climb mountains.

I know where you are coming from. I have my parents too, and I remember, several years ago in the wilderness of Palawan, climbing a tall tree just to have one bar of cellphone signal, just to send that text message to tell my mom that I'm okay. We mountaineers worry about you, as much as you worry about us. Oftentimes, it is the thought of you worrying that worry us, which is why I hope you will not worry. In other words, I don't want you to simply allow your son to climb mountains. I want you to believe in the outdoors as a positive experience for him - one that will not cause you sleepless nights.

The element of danger will always be there, and I cannot explain it away by saying that it does not exist. But do not be swayed by the reports of accidents in the mountains. Death and injury are things that can happen anywhere - in the streets of Manila, in a basketball court, in the highways and superhighways, and even at home. As a medical doctor, I can personally attest to this. Balance whatever news you get with the fact that every year, thousands of people go up and down the mountains safely, finding joy and fulfillment in the process. Every day, car accidents happen; every year, plane crashes happen. This does not mean we will abandon these forms of transportation.

I am reminded of a saying I heard in India: "The greatest risk in life is not taking any risks at all." Risks will always be there. Moreover, it can be minimized with adequate preparation - both mental and physical - and this is something that your son will have when he climbs with experienced mountaineers or the hiking club he wants to join. It is a healthy concern of yours - one that I share - to make sure that he does not just go mountain climbing without proper guidance.

Life, they say, is a weighing of risks and benefits and I want to highlight the benefits of climbing mountains.

The pursuit of the outdoors is not an out-of-this world experience that is entirely unrelated to the everyday. You would probably not appreciate the fact that he will learn all sorts of knots - though that, too, can come in handy in times of emergency. You may also probably not appreciate his newfound awareness of north, south, east, and west - though that too may be useful when you're on a family roadtrip and for some reason, you've lost your bearings on the way to Baguio. But I'm sure you will be surprised - and delighted - to know that your son will also learn how to cook, and that doesn't mean just frying some hotdogs in a pan, but preparing rice and real meals, and not in a kitchen - but in the most basic of stoves, amid the rain, darkness, and wind. There is no such thing as a sheltered existence in the mountains, for comfort is the enemy of adventure. He will learn to pitch his tent in the campsite and take care of his belongings. There will be consequences when he forgets to bring his headlamp, or his jacket. Implicit in all of these is the acquisition of a sense of responsibility.

Did you ever call your son 'burara' when you see his bedroom? There in the outdoors, there is no choice but to fold the tent neatly or else it wouldn't fit. There is no other way to fit in so many things inside a backpack but to do it in an orderly way, with clothes, food, and gear stowed into discrete packets so they won't get wet and so they are easy to access. And we mountaineers are very strict when it comes to cleaning up our mess, and we are sworn never to leave trash behind when we climb mountains. If growing up is learning to care for others, then mountaineering can help, because before you can care for others, you have to know how to care for yourself, and this is what the outdoors forces us to learn.

Remember those field trips that schools make you pay for - to pencil factories, museums, and other places of interesrt? Think of mountain climbing as a field trip, but this time, instead of going to a zoo or a botanical garden, there is the opportunity of seeing a real forest, with animals living in their true habitat. Instead of a candy factory or a pencil factory, your son will have the opportunity to see the realities of the country more than any social studies textbook can: the illegal logging that sadly goes on in the forests, the plight - and the beautiful cultures - of the indigenous peoples - the state of our transportation system, and many more.

Why am I mentioning all of these things? Because, if you value his education and if you view education as something that necessarily goes beyond the confines of the classroom, you will appreciate that fact that your son will learn skills and attitudes that will make him a better man. If you read Conrado de Quiros or Randy David and care about our country, I would also make the point that hiking will make him a better Filipino - for I believe seeing the country and meeting the people that comprise it are key ingredients in making him care about Inang Bayan. You cannot love what you do not appreciate, and you cannot appreciate what you have not seen, or heard, or felt.

I do not want your son to be addicted to the mountains at the expense of his schooling, or his work. But I want him to be passionate about life, a passion for the peaks that can find its way in all else that you do. The mountains out there are metaphors for the larger adventure of life.

Parents often rant about their children being to hooked to computers, the Internet, Facebook, and cellphones - essentially a daily dependence in technology, that creates the unfortunate situation where we can be physically together but disconnected, lost in our separate, virtual worlds. But in the outdoors, people walk together and do the things that people have been doing since time immemorial: talking around the warmth of a tiny stove, huddling beneath a tarpaulin amid the incessant rain, and awaiting and watching the sunrise - essentially, experiencing nature in an unadulterated way. Isn't that what life is all about? If you ever felt the need to say "Noong araw..." to your children, letting them go hiking is a chance for them to experience many of things you experienced when you were younger: sleeping in a nipa hut (which usually happens at the end or the beginning of a hike), swimming in a river - or a underneath a waterfall - and experiencing life without electricity, plus many more. Like I reflected recently:

"Masarap pala ang tubig kahit hindi malamig. Ang sarap palang pagpawisan, o mabasa ng tubig-ulan. Ang sarap kumain ng tinapay kahit walang palaman, at matulog ng pagod kahit walang unan...The pursuit of the outdoors makes us appreciate the things we take for granted in everyday life." In the appreciation of these simple things, we learn humility and contentment.

Given a choice between your son spending the whole weekend in front of his computer - or partying in a friend's house - and immersing himself in nature - traveling to places you've never heard of, learning about his country and the world, what choice will you have for him? Before rejecting the outdoors, think of the alternatives.

I can go on and on, because hiking has personally taught me a lot of things: about the world, about my country, about others, and about myself. And I guess at this point I have to thank my parents a lot for allowing me to enrich my life through the mountains. There will be many more rewards of allowing your son to climb mountains - but they are best experienced, and seen - rather than told.

Just as a person standing atop a human pyramid cannot claim victory on his own, a hiker cannot reach the mountaintop without people supporting him. Mental strength is what makes people reach the summit, and that strength comes from the moral support from the people that important to him. Again, I do not want you to allow him to climb mountains but with a reluctance than will make him feel guilty whenever he is away. Do not deprive him of the moral support that brings strength more than a granola bar or a Gatorade bottle can ever give. And when he is far beyond the reach of any cellphone signal - do not be too hard on him. Let the mountains be his home, if only for a while. Wherever we go, we will remain, to use the lyrics of that hopeful song, 'underneath the same big sky'; God will watch over us and ultimately be our guide. As Wordsworth once said:

Nature never did betray / 
The heart that loved her.

And so, buy him that backpack! Give him the tent he's been asking for, and don't deprive him of that extra allowance he needs for the mountain he's been looking forward to all semester. Make him deserve it, of course - discipline and hardwork are at the heart of mountaineering. There are no shortcuts - or elevators - to reach the peak, and so it is with life. But importantly, allow him to climb mountains, and support him wholeheartedly.

When he reaches the top, he will bring a part of you there also, for there is no greater joy for a child than to make his parents proud. You who taught him how to walk will have the pleasure of seeing him walk around the world, above the clouds... and back home.

Sincerely yours,

Gideon Lasco
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
October 10, 2013

Introducing Shirt no 13: "Mountains" - a souvenir shirt series for Philippine peaks!

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So far, we've released generic shirts that (re)present the beauty and the adventure of the outdoors in general, but mountains have personalities, and we have special memories not to hiking in general, but to specific mountains. This why, for the first time, we are releasing Shirt no. 13, "Mountains", a series for particular mountains - beginning with the most popular ones: Pulag, Pico de Loro, Makiling, Batulao, and Maculot. However we are planning to release many more in the future, like G2, Halcon, Apo, Mayon!

The shirts feature the elevation of the mountains in front, and the latitude and longitude at the back. Instead of showing the mountains' pictures, we are depicting instead the mountains' outline from a certain vantage point. By adopting this minimalist stance, we seek to affirm the fact the full image of the mountain is something that is better experienced rather than presented.

Shirt no. 13 is available for P350/shirt in Women's and Men's sizes. For online orders and Inquiries please email shirts@pinoymountaineer.com or PM The Perfect White Shirt in FB: www.facebook.com/messages/theperfectwhiteshirt

Special offer: Free shipping nationwide for 3 or more shirts to local regular deliverable areas!

*Also available in all The Perfect White Shirt branches

GLORIETTA - 3rd Floor, Teenzone, Glorietta 3, Makati City

TRINOMA - 2nd Floor, Teenzone, Trinoma, Quezon City

MARKET!MARKET! - K6, New Wing, Ground Floor

ALABANG TOWN CENTER- 2nd floor, in front of T-shirt Project, near National Bookstore

ROBINSONS PLACE ERMITA - Padre Faura Wing, second Level, infront of Regatta

ROBINSONS MAGNOLIA - 2nd level, near The Athlete's Foot

ROBINSONS GALLERIA - Sports Loop, 2nd level, Infront of Mizuno

MountainTalk #13: Romi Garduce on his book launch and future plans

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Photo courtesy of Romi Garduce
AMSTERDAM - October 3, 2013 saw the book launch of Romi Garduce's "Akyat", subtitled "A Filipino's Journey to the Seven Summits". This highly-anticipated book chronicles Romi's journeys to the highest mountains of each of the continents, becoming the first (and so far the only) Filipino to do so. I would have wanted to attend the launch (and get a signed copy of the book) but unfortunately I had already left for Europe just a few days before. Here are some questions I threw to Romi by email following the launch:

1. Congratulations on your book launch. Writing the book must have taken a lot of discipline and dedication! How did you manage it? 
It TOOK ME 7 YEARS, patience is truly a virtue ;) What helped were my occasional writing of climb stories, and comments from my reviewers/editors.
  
2. Do you write journal entries during your expeditions?  
I DON’T ACTUALLY, and I realized that I don’t need it.  I did chronicle my climbs a few months, even years after.

3. Where can mountaineers get hold of your book? 
The book is available in R.O.X. Philippines in Taguig, Central Books in Quezon Avenue, Quezon City, and more outlets in the future. You can also directly order from Romi by emailing him at romi.garduch@gmail.com. For more details: http://romigarduce.blogspot.sg/2013/10/book-title-akyat-filipinos-journey-to.html

4. Aside from your book, you've also recently reinvigorated your web presence. Can you tell us about your blog?
THE BLOG is my medium to share/ educate and campaign for various things.  It’s my way to reach out and share what I’ve learned. You visit the blog here.

5. What's next for Romy Garduce?
Nothing big yet. The most immediate perhaps is to pursue the idea of an alpine mountaineering course for Filipinos late next year.  I’ll most likely offer a class, part in Philippines, part in Nepal. For beginners and advanced, the latter will include a climb of 7000m peak.

Hiking matters #372: A nature walk in Flanders, Belgium

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AMSTERDAM - It's been two weeks since I left the country for Europe - where I am studying/working for my PhD in medical anthropology - and happily, I somehow managed to go on a short hike - of all the places, in the region of Flanders, Belgium. The Netherlands literally means 'lowlands' and I may very well be below sea level from where I am writing this piece - but as I am discovering, there are a lot of places to go on nature walks - what the Dutch would call het wandelen. These walks, in fact, can run up to several hundred kilometers!

Last weekend, I found myself in the little town of Oudenaarde, in Flanders, Belgium where fortunately I found some trails to explore. They are very flat, of course, but the woods are a nice respite from Amsterdam's brick-and-stone world - even though that is very lovely in its own way.

Without a summit to look forward to, these trails are more "existential" in the sense that you will pay more attention to the here and the now, and take delight in small things like a passing bird or squirrel, or the unique flora - though coming the Philippines, I must admit that such delights are hard to come by. The changing colors of fall, though, are something to anticipate. Meanwhile I have some exciting - and more real - hikes planned next week - in another country!

Hiking matters #373: Hiking in Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro

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AMSTERDAM - The nice thing about Europe is that the countries are just close to each other and with the advent of budget airlines, traveling around the continent is as easy as flying from Luzon to Mindanao. My previous trips to Europe were short and I wasn't able to take advantage of this geographic configuration, but now that I am here for a while - and while it is not yet winter - I realized that I should make the most of time.
 
So last weekend I went to Rome, visiting the ruins of the Roman Empire as well as Vatican City. From Rome, I took the train to Naples to do some hikes. I chose the island of Capri as my first destination as it is very accessible from Naples, easy to cover in one or two days, and of course, beautiful - why else would it be the vacation place of Roman emperors? The ferry from Naples to Capri took 50 minutes, and immediately after disembarking, I began my trek around the island.
My initial goal was Monte Solaro, at 589 MASL the highest point in the island. Since Capri is really a tourist destination, you can take a bus to Anacapri then a funicular to reach the very top of it, but I decided on the more enjoyable way - traversing the island while I'm at it. From Capri, I followed the provincial road to Anacapri, finding some nice trails along the way, including the Scala Fenicia to Villa San Michelle. 
At Villa San Michelle, I munched on a slice of Pizza Napoli (which I bought in Napoli) and had some lemonade which is apparently a local delicacy (they do grow lemons and oranges and I saw some orchards along the way). Then I proceeded to Monte Solaro. The trail is made for tourists and is very easy, so I took my time to enjoy the views of Anacapri and the Mediterranean sea. 
Monte Solaro itself was disappointing as there is even a cafe up there - and the clouds were blocking the fabled views so I instead proceeded to Monte Cappello, with some nice limestone formations and that is where I took my pictures (yes, a camera timer can work wonders). In all, I had a good six hours of walking - which is not bad at all! Back in Capri I had a nice dinner (and Pistachio gelato) to celebrate my day of hiking, and retired early so I can await the sunrise in another part of the island - and that's for the next post!

Hiking matters #374: Hiking in Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp to Marina Piccola

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On the morning after my island walk that took me to Monte Solaro (see Hiking matters #373), I woke up early to explore the southern coast, which also had nice trails. I particularly wanted to see the sun rise behind the Faraglioni - an islet on the southeast that is one of the most scenic vistas in the island.  The famous trail - winding down the cliff- is called Via Krupp, which is over a hundred years old, and has a curious history of being a secret passageway to a grotto where sex orgies with local youths.
I was rewarded with views of the sunrise just as I had finished trekking down the winding path. And I then I continued walking towards the direction of Marina Piccola - the 'small port'. Along the way the path remained mesmerizing as the sun illuminated the coastline. I also came across a park where an image of Lenin was on display - apparently the Soviet Union founder also stayed there.
I walked further until the scenic trial gave way to the village in Marina Piccola. I made a right turn to connect back to Capri where I was staying. Along the way I saw cloud-capped Monte Solaro, and the same streets lined with villas and boutiques that make for a distinctive feel of Capri. My entire morning peregrination took just over two hours, and I was back in my hotel in time for a late breakfast.
It would have been very nice to stay for one or two more days in Capri and explore the other sights: Villa Jovis, the lighthouse on the southwest, and more, all by foot. But that unfulfilled desire to stay longer is exactly the stuff that makes places special. When I took the ferry back to Naples on that day I knew that I will always cherish my two days in the island of Capri.

CAPRI AND MT. VESUVIUS (AUTUMN 2013)
Hiking matters #373: Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro
Hiking matters #374: Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp
Hiking matters #375: Hiking up Mount Vesuvius 

Hiking matters #375: The hike up Mt. Vesuvius and a visit to Pompeii, Italy

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AMSTERDAM - On the last day of my short trip to Rome and Naples, after two memorable days in the island of Capri, I hiked up Mt. Vesuvius and then visited the town of Pompeii. From Napoli Centrale train station, I took the Circumvesuviana train line, got off at Ercolano Scavi station, then booked a bus trip to Vesuvius, which for 20 EUR included the entrance to the Vesuvius National Park. I met Katherine in Ercolano and we did the hike together.

Mt. Vesuvius - Monte Vesuvio in Italian - is the only active volcano in the European mainland, and is famous for its eruption in AD. 79 that destroyed the town of Pompeii. Ironically, this act of destruction led to the preservation of the town, making it an archaeological goldmine - a literal slice of life in the Roman Empire.
As hiking destinations, volcanoes have a distinct flavor. They are usually straightforward ascents to the top - although some, like Kanlaon, are complex volcanoes that include very long trails. At first, the trail may be grassy or forested, but the final leg is usually all rock and volcanic sand - think Mayon or Fuji. And the most awesome attraction of all is the crater. Literally an opening from the Earth itself, there is something powerful about craters; they remind us of powers that are beyond our reckoning.
There is also a kind of build-up as you hike up a volcano, as the crater gets nearer, and as the green gives way to gray. But in Mt. Vesuvius, the 'forest' part of the trail has been cut off; instead, it is directly an assault to the crater, with less than 300 meters to gain. As a hiker, I would have wanted something more substantial, but as a history enthusiast, it did not matter; I would have climbed it in any case.
The trails are very wide and easy; hundreds of people do the hike every day, unless Vesuvius is showing signs of volcanic activity - thankfully this hasn't happened since 1944 when the volcano inadvertently participated in World War II, destroying 80 American aircraft. The volcano also thwarted an Olympic Games in Rome in 1908 when a catastrophic eruption two years before led the Italians to instead divert their funds to the recovery of the Naples area It is fascinating how a volcano transcends, but at the same time takes part in, world history.
We reached the crater rim in less than an hour, and took time to explore the area. Just like Taal or Apo, you can still see sulfuric steam effusing from the rocks in the periphery of the rim. Side by side with these volcanic features, you also have a souvenir shop in the rim, selling wine, food, and some souvenirs supposedly made from the sand of Vesuvius. As for me, my only souvenirs are the pictures on this blog.
We had a short picnic in one of the benches at the rim but then it started getting cold (which happens when you stop moving) - so we started the quick descent, and soon found ourselves back in Ercolano Scavi. I decided that there was still time to visit Pompeii and so I went to the archaeological site - a perfect complement with the hike. Then I headed back to Napoli and went to the airport to catch an evening flight back to Amsterdam.


CAPRI AND MT. VESUVIUS (AUTUMN 2013)
Hiking matters #373: Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro
Hiking matters #374: Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp
Hiking matters #375: Hiking up Mount Vesuvius 

Initiatives by mountaineers and our friends to help victims of Typhoon Yolanda

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I am, like every Filipino at the moment, heartbroken over the devastation wrought by Typhoon Yolanda. Amid the pain and the difficulty of making sense, dealing with, and overcoming, we always have to think of something we can do to help out - in our little way - and I would like the share the initiatives of hiking clubs and groups of mountaineers which you may want to support. This is an incomplete list - please help me by sharing information about other initiatives. You can email me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com.  

MFPI: Mountaineers For Relief
See the details in the poster above. Thank you Scarlet Villamor for forwarding this to us.

Mu Relief+: Typhoon Yolanda
The Mu Sigma Phi Relief Operations, the Fraternity’s and Sorority’s disaster quick-response arm, is now again accepting donations for victims of Typhoon Yolanda.

Most important donations: 
Dry clothes
Drinking water
Undergarments
Sanitary napkin
Blankets

Other recommended donations:
Canned Goods
Rice
Instant Noodles
Sleeping Mats
Toiletries

We will be accepting donations, in cash and kind, at the Mu Sigma Phi Hut, at the UP College of Medicine.

For any inquiries or concerns, you may coordinate with Eman (0925-884-3050) or Billy (0927-571-1017/0922-535-6100). 

Monetary donations may be deposited at the following account:
Account name: Mu Sigma Phi Relief Operations
Account number: 504259500015
Bank: Philippine National Bank (PNB) – PGH Branch

Donations from overseas may also be coursed through the following:
Swift Code: PNBMPHMM
Routing # 01008-0081

Bangon Bayani
The Sigma Kappa Pi and the Sigma Delta Pi are also organizing relief operations (see poster for details). They are soliciting relief goods that you can give in drop-off points at Padre Faura and Makati. 

University of San Carlos Mountaineers 
The University of San Carlos Mountaineers and Nature Unlimited Outdoor Club (NULOC) based in Cebu have joined forces for the Assessment and Relief of our fellowmen and mountaineers in the Leyte area who are affected by typhoon Yolanda. Details:

"The Group decided to conduct assessment on the area and check members of the club and asssist rescue effort if needed. They will feed back so as to whom to coordinate with.. most likely to Jason Garrido.

"The next step is relief of which we will be collecting goods and funds from friends and kind individuals. Relief goods maybe given to any USCM member ( SAO may provide us some space C/O Andie Dela Cruz Sabaricos and JesseBoy Aguilar Wee) We hope to deliver the goods as early as possible.

"For Cash donations pls deposit it to Marie Maxine A. Mateo BPI account # 1359363574. Pls Message her if you intent to send Marie Maxine Acuna Mateo. For ML Kwarta padala, Palawan express, Western Union pls address it to Anie Dela Cruz Sabaricos. same way pls msg him. We really incourage Cash donations so as to make the goods in uniform and personalize their needs and also for mobilization of the team. Gina Caneja will help listing in the status of our members.. so if you are from leyte pls msg her or call her 09275428294

For Coordination pls msg: Leoj Onirac ( Joel Carino sun 09239149078, smart 09983634859, Glenn Ramirez Panic Anthony 09231784027

Burublig para ha Tanauan 
From @Sxon Morante: "Here's one of the organization initiating a reilef operation to our place Tanauan Leyte. We have a slot on C130 going to Tacloban then will be transported asap to Tanauan. Here's our page, Burublig para ha Tanauan you may contact the organizers thru the page the list and other details you need are there to extend your help. Thanks in advance."

HK-based Filipino Mountaineers hike for Tacloban
From Joel Buha: "We just recently finish our Charity Hike For CEBU & BOHOL and now we are on our way to to another Charity Hike for TACLOBAN. I'm planning to send monitary help so that they can buy whatever is needed and my direct contact in Tacloban will arrange everything.

FILMS CHARITY HIKE FOR TACLOBAN
Hong Kong Trail Section 8: Dragon's Back
December 01, 2013
09:00am-01:00pm

Futher details are posted on FILIPINO MOUNTAINEERS SOCIETY facebook page: www.facebook.com/FilipinoMountaineersSociety

FEU Outdoors: Task Force Yolanda
Our organization is knocking to your kind hearts to help our brothers and sisters in tacloban.

In kind: we prepared the ff.

1 galon of water
Canned goods
Crackers
Candles and matches
Clothes
Medicines (fever, colds, anti tetanus, open wounds)

We also encourage cash donations for more effective buying of goods (whole sale) you can deposit in this account.
601853 906 2678275
(BDO CASH CARD)
DANILO A. MAGSINO

*You can drop your in kinds and cash donations @juanas budbod and coffe legarda.

Thank you and god bless our country.

For information kindly contact the ff persons:

09261043189 (dan magsino) ~ feu outdoors president
09174600662 (Caren somodio) ~ feu outdoors vice president
09278682308 (kiara ragos) ~.juanas budbod and coffee


Hiking matters #376: A loop hike up La Dôle (1677m) in the Jura Mountains, Switzerland

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NEW YORK CITY - Last weekend, I went to Switzerland to meet with Iron Lady Jo Steven and Everest climber Leo Oracion; needless to say we did some hiking! It's been over two years since I last hiked with the Iron Lady, and my last hike with Leo was a Makiling Traverse in February 2012. I look up to these two great mountaineers so I was really delighted to have a chance to visit them.
I took an early morning flight from Amsterdam and arrived in Geneva by 0950H. Leo waited for me at the airport and we drove to Nyon to pick up the Iron Lady at the train station. Then, we proceeded to Saint Cergue to do a loop hike of La Dole (1677m), the second highest mountain in the Swiss part of the Jura mountain range, which runs from France to Germany through Switzerland.
Goethe was to have described the place in these terms: "There are no words to describe the grandeur and the beauty of this spectacle." I have to agree with him. The small villages, pine forests, and the backdrop of rolling hills were truly stunning and difficult to put into words.

The trails passed through a combination of pine woodlands and open, grassy, sometimes rocky slopes. Had the weather been better we would have seen views of Mont Blanc and the majestic Swiss Alps - Bernese and Chablis - but even the immediate views - extending to Lake Geneva - were awesome.
When we arrived at the summit, there was a sliver of snow that enveloped the peak area, which we found very nice. It is only November, but winter comes early to Switzerland, the land of white mountains. We briefly paused to enjoy the nice views at the peak - which included a white radar dome that Leo called a 'golf ball'.
We traversed through La Dole and descended using a southwestern trail, having lunch just 10 minutes away from the French border. While seated in some boulders, we saw a couple of chamois, the goat-antelope found in the European mountains. It's always nice to see animals in the wild. Jo and I reminisced about our Mt. Sicapoo hike when we saw wild deer - which is sadly become a rare occasion in the Philippines.
The descent was very easy and the weather cooperated all throughout, defying the dire forecasts. Before reconnnecting to the original trail we took going up, we passed through a nice stone wall that reminded me of the rich history of the place.
After the hike, Leo took us to Valais, where we planned to stage off our next hike. Thank you so much Leo for the hospitality, and to Iron Lady for joining us for the weekend!


HIKING IN THE JURA MOUNTAINS AND MONT SALEVE
Hiking matters #376: La Dole, Jura Mountains, Switzerland
Hiking matters #377: Mount Saleve, Rhone-Alpes, France
Hiking matters #378: Le Reculet, Jura Mountains, France 

AirAsia Zest now in Manila and Cebu with exciting destinations!

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I still remember my first AirAsia flight – from Kuala Lumpur to Surabaya at the start of a 10-day “ASEAN
Adventure” in May 2010 that took us to five countries and several mountains. We flew AirAsia again from Yogyakarta to KL,then KL to Siem Reap: aboard those planes I felt that I am on a new age of with more affordable flights, and more destinations that can open the horizons of many through the education that comes through traveling.

AirAsia has since grown and expanded, and now ZestAir has become rebranded as AirAsia Zest under the Air Asia group – as the airline disclosed to a group of bloggers In an event held at Clawdaddy’s (@clawdaddyph) at Bonifacio High Street last November 7. With this news from AirAsia, traveling within and beyond the Philippines just got more exciting!

Previously headquartered in Clark, Air Asia Philippines is now in Manila, offering the following domestic destinations: Cebu, Davao, Kalibo, Tagbilaran, Cagayan de Oro, and Puerto Princesa. Moreover, they are also offering flights to Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu, Incheon, Shanghai, and Macau. Interestingly Air Asia Zest is also offering a Manila to Miri flight, which should be very interesting. There are lots of mountains and outdoor activities in Sarawak!

Moreover AirAsia is also now in Cebu, with flights to Manila, Davao, Cagayan de Oro, Puerto Princesa, and Kuala Lumpur.

Watch out for exciting promos from AirAsia! You can book your flights at airasia.com. You can also like the AirAsia Philippines Facebook page (click this link) and follow them on Twitter (@AirAsiaPH) for updates.

Note: This is a sponsored post. 

Calling for a "National Mountain Clean-up Day" on May 10, 2014

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Inspired by the International Coastal Cleanup Day and motivated in part by the need to step up our efforts in the face of increasingly severe disasters that we face as a nation, I would like to suggest that we all join hands in holding a National Mountain Clean-up Day in May 10, 2014, after the peak season and before the rains - in what I envision to be an annual activity that allows not just to clean up all the mountains but also to have a strong voice in raising awareness about the importance of protecting our mountains and forests.

Like the anti-pork rally, no organizer is required for this event and we do not need any kind of registration or fees; all we need to do is to coordinate which groups are climbing which mountains so we will not cluster together in one mountain (I can do this by posting the groups in PM). Sharing of ideas, plans, schedules, and group invites can also be facilitated through social media by using the hashtag #mtncleanup2014. I think for this event to succeed, it is important that the idea itself to be the rallying point rather than a group of organizers. Thus while I will be active in coordinating this event, I am not the organizer. Neither this is my original idea - I'm sure many others have thought about this before. I want everyone to be the organizers so we can all claim ownership of this activity.

There are certain guidelines that we have to be aware of, however, in the conduct of the clean-up climbs.

1. As many mountains as possible, as few mountaineers in a mountain as possible - The goal is for us to be able to clean many mountains to avoid redundancy in the clean-up but at the same time to avoid overcrowding. Of course, more groups will be required to clean up more popular mountains like Mt. Apo. But we should still strive to maintain a group size of around 15 persons per group. To avoid multiple groups going into the same trail or mountain, I will be posting the list of groups who have final plans in this post. Again, we can use the hashtag #mtncleanup2014 to coordinate efforts.

2. Proper waste disposal. It is not enough to bring back the waste to the jumpoff, because it may just as easily end up being disposed in the same irresponsible way. It is important to see to it that the waste is properly disposed. Thus it is advisable to coordinate with local government units, the local DENR, on where the drop-off points for all the trash can be. I will also make a separate post about "Guidelines on organizing a clean-up climb" which will also include things to bring, how to protect

3. Coordination with local and national government is recommended. This is related to #2. As we all know, being a mountaineer means being able to deal with different people: the locals, the guide, our fellow mountaineers. Coordinating with LGUs, whenever possible, will allow them to participate in an environmental activity and avoid the potentially embarrassing situation of being perceived to be unable to clean one's own backyard. I will also try to coordinate with the national DENR and see if they can help us. Your ideas are very welcome and if you have contacts with government agencies, you are more than welcome to share them with us (I hope Secretary Ramon Paje can somehow hear this!).

4. Let's make this visible. For this activity to have a big impact, we need to "make noise" so we can bring to the national consciousness the importance of clean mountains as well as mountain-related issues. So if you have journalist friends, friends in the media, and other people who have a wide reach - you should invite them to take part, and if you are a journalist yourself please help us highlight this initiative so people can hear about it and hopefully be inspired. Of course all of us have social media presence and we can use this to influence others as well.

What is more powerful, cursing someone for littering in the mountain, or picking up his trash in front of him and putting it in your bag? Actions speak louder than words. By holding a National Mountain Clean-up Day as a collective action, we can influence through social media more powerfully than any discussion thread or status message can ever achieve. By doing this as an annual event, we have the opportunity to show the nation that our mountains need to be cleaned and conserved, and this is also a chance to inspire others to be responsible mountaineers. Let's do this! #mtncleanup2014

LIST OF CLEAN-UP CLIMBS SCHEDULED ON MAY 10, 2014
DESTINATION
ORGANIZING CLUB OR GROUP
CONTACT PERSON
CONTACT #
Gulugod-Baboy
Rotaract Club of Malabon East
Reginald Panida
09164505739
Pico de Loro
Team Subi Monte
Jayson Gregorio
09258887663
Malabondokers and Friends
Nicolaou Romero
09165907892
Mt. Ugo
ICONS (In Conquest of Nature's Secret)
Jeff Mansibang
09275219225
Mt. Sembrano
Rotaract Clubs of Camanava
Gabe Santos
09261177946
Mt. Romelo
Kanlungan Pilipinas Movement
Herald Villarca
09328787857
Manabu Peak
Don Bosco Mountaineering Society
Emerson
09277983435
Mt. Tagapo
Dell Outdoor Club
Brylle Estigoy
09063470669
Mt. Batulao
Batangas Mountaineering Society
Gary Salvador Garay
09278681973
Mt. Daguldol
Hightop Adventure
Mark Villamor
09277334359

ADD YOUR GROUP TO THE LIST
You can make a comment with the following information in this post, you can email me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com

Group name:
Group leader:
Clean-up destination:
Contact number:
Number of slots (max. 18):
Additional information / remarks:

FREQUENTLY-ASKED QUESTIONS

1. I do not have a group. How can I join the clean-up climbs?
The contact numbers of the organizers are listed in the table above. You can contact them to signify your interest. Also, as May 10, 2014 approaches, if we identify a mountain that has no group yet, we can ask people to volunteer as organizer for such open clean-up climbs that are not organized.

2. Our group is interested to join but we do not know how to organize a clean-up climb. How do we go about it?
Organizing a clean-up climb is not rocket science. Basically a clean-up climb is just the act of climbing a mountain to collect trash in the trails, campsites, and points of interest and bringing it down to a place where proper waste disposal is practiced. One can also interpret a 'clean-up climb' to include the act of cleaning up vandalisms from rocks, among others. I will post a set of guidelines on how to conduct a clean-up climb soon.

3. What if there are several groups doing a clean-up climb in one mountain?
The reason why I am posting the groups who have already announced their intentions is so that we can avoid such a situation. Groups who have decided on the same destination can discuss among themselves how to work it out. For examples, many mountains have different trails and groups can focus their clean-up efforts in a particular trail. Two or three groups doing a clean-up for one mountain is not a bad especially if these mountains are high-impact to begin with, and have many trash to be collected. The important thing is that groups cooperate with each other and with the local government.

4. How much will participating in the clean-up climbs cost?
There will be no registration or other fees, except for the costs that the organizing groups will set for their own climbs. PinoyMountaineer itself is not the organizer of one big events, but the coordinator of several small events happening at the same time. Organizers of the climbs are free to get sponsorship for their own events, without the need to get consent from PinoyMountaineer or anyone.

5. Will there be IDs and event/souvenir shirts?
I know that shirts and IDs are important for hiking events. However, to avoid any financial and logistical issues, any shirt that will be produced as an event shirt will be open source design which groups and individuals can just download and print for themselves and add their logos on it. We will also have an open source logo for the event that people can add to their own shirts and IDs. I can upload it as a high-resolution image file by February or March 2014.

6. I cannot join the clean-up climbs but I still want to support this initiative. How can I help?
We need to reach as many people as we can with our message of the importance of clean mountains. If you think you have the opportunity, ability, or resources to contribute towards this goal, please get in touch with me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com. 

Gear Review: Merrell Proterra Sport Hiking shoe (Preliminary)

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AMSTERDAM - I tried the Merrell Proterra Sport hiking shoe in Mt. Batulao in September, hoping to make it my replacement for my beloved La Sportiva Wildcat GTX, which has worn out after so many hikes. Trail running has become a big deal globally, and with it, a plethora of footwear. I am not a trail runner but I am keen on trying shoes that are designed for quick tramps and short, easy dayhikes. Ultimately, I decided that I liked the shoe, and I brought it along in Europe where I used it to do some hikes in Italy, including Mt. Vesuvius and the trails of Capri.

The Merrell Proterra Sport offers itself as a 'minimalist hiking shoe' and what I immediately noticed was that it was very light, and very comfortable -- to a point that you would feel that it is a bit big for the size. It doesn't require any break-in, and you can really use straight off the box.

In terms of sturdiness in rocky surfaces, it performs well enough but I am not sure how it will stand up to a lengthy trail full of rocks such as that of Mt. Tapulao. I have a feeling that the fact that it is not Vibram will start to be felt if you're planning to use it for major climbs. But if you are just going for a regular hike, I think this is an excellent choice. As for traction, I didn't have problems with the Proterra.

Lightweight shoes do away with waterproofing to make the shoes lighter, and for low-cut shoes, you're gonna get wet anyway after a while since the water will seep in. For the Philippines, a non-waterproof shoe is okay since it allows you to cross rivers without worrying that you're shoes will get wet - provided that the shoe dries quickly. The only drawback for the Proterra is that the mesh easily gets wet and it feels wet when it's wet and slushy - unlike the Waterpro series of Merrell,the materials of which do not absorb water.

 But overall it is a nice shoe and I will use it again for the dayhikes that I'm beginning to miss. I think the move towards minimalist footwear is a welcome development and I look forward to more Proterras in the future.

Hiking matters #380: Cape Sounion in Greece - Mythology, beauty, and the Aegean Sea

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Cape Sounion at the tip of Attica, Greece, with the Temple of Poseidon
at the background
Last weekend, I went to Athens  and made two very fantastic daytrips from the Greek capital: The first was to Cape Sounion (Aκρωτήριο Σούνιο) - the site of Poseidon's Temple. The second much longer trip was to Delphi, site of the renowned Oracle, and one of the most important places of the ancient world. Both these two involved some hiking possibilities, and even though I wasn't able to make the most out of them, given the lack of time and bad weather, I had enough to make my feet happy and my mind brimming with beautiful memories.
Cape Sounion is about 70 kilometers away south of Athens, at the tip of the Attica peninsula. Its pedigree transcends myth and history: it was mentioned in Homer's Odyssey, and it was the place where King Aegeus waited for his son, the hero Theseus. With rolling hills and dramatic cliffs reminiscent of the Batanes islands, it was a great choice for erecting the Temple of Poseidon - which still stands after more than two millennia. For my visit to Sounion I was joined by Mai Taqueban of the Loyola Mountaineers; we met three kababayan in Athens and we all decided to take a cab together (Shoutout to them!). 
Upon arriving at Sounion, instead of going directly to the Tempe of Poseidon, Mai and I first explored the Eastern Hill, which has some trails that take take you to the dramatic cliffs. Amazingly, the you could see the island of Crete from a distance. King Aegeus would definitely have seen Theseus coming, since he slew the Minotaur in Crete. Of course, we all know the story that Theseus, instead of putting white sails that signify victory, let the black sails remain unfurled, causing the King to think that his son had died. In his despair, he fell off the cliffs, drowning in the sea that now bears his name.
We walked around the hill and marveled the beauty of the place, and how steeped it was in legend. It is actually a very hike an easy trek and given sufficient time one can explore more of the peninsula. But confronted with the splendid views of the Aegean, and Crete, and the coast - I decided that I was better off gazing at the sea, imagining the approach of the ship with black sails...
Finally we trekked back to the Temple of Poseidon. It was not as grand as the Parthenon, but the sea that surrounds it invested it with a pathos that was made more poignant with the clouds and light rain that reminded us that it was time to go back to Athens. So beautiful was the experience that I felt I could say, with Lord Byron, the verse he penned upon his visit to the very place:

Place me on Sunium's marbled steep,
Where nothing, save the waves and I,
May hear our mutual murmurs sweep..

Hiking maters #381: Delphi, Greece - the site of ancient Oracle on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos

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AMSTERDAM - A day after the relaxing walk in Cape Sounion (see Hiking matters #380), Mai and I went to Delphi, the site of the ancient Oracle and one of the most important places in Ancient Greece. Kings and emperors alike sought the counsel of the Oracle, a priestess who was believed to receive tidings from Apollo himself. From the Trojan War to Alexander's conquests, Delphi loomed large as in indispensible part of the narrative.
For me, the added bonus was that Delphi was perched in the slopes of Mt. Parnassus, one of the loftier mountains of Greece (for Parisians, this is where Montparnasse comes from). Delphi can be the beginning or the end of a hiking trip - in the same way that Batad Rice Terraces can be the beginning or end of a Mt. Amuyao Traverse. I actually considered doing a longer hike of Parnassus but ultimately - given the bad weather that weekend - I had to content myself with a walk within Delphi, with the ruins as the highlight. It was still a very memorable trip and I would like to go back to hike in the area someday.

The highlight was the archaeological site where ancient Delphi stood. A winding stone trail takes you up the various buildings that once stood on the slopes - from small shrines to the once-magnificent Temple of Apollo, as well as the Theater (see picture below). All of these ancient monuments have their own interesting tales - involving gods, earthquakes, Roman invaders, and a 2500-year old Sphinx that is still intact, kept in the Delphi Museum.

By the time we finished visiting the ruins and exploring the town, we had walked for over four hours in inclined footpaths. I'm sure without our background with mountains we wouldn't have gone that far. Which makes me reflect that being a hiker is more than being able to climb mountains. It is also having an open mind to explore new places and try new things. Having said thus, I'm glad I decided to go to Delphi. There is no Oracle that can tell me if I would be able to come back, but I certainly hope I can. Meanwhile, I will take the injunction in the Temple: "Know Thyself", to heart.
The Temple of Athena in Delphi

GLIMPSES OF GREECE: ATHENS AND DELPHI
Hiking matters #381: Delphi at the slopes of Mt. Parnassos 

Hiking matters #377: Hiking up Mont Salève, the "balcony of Geneva" in Rhône-Alpes, France

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By the cliffs of Grand-Gorges in Mont Saleve
CHICAGO, IL - From Leo Oracion's house in Valais, Iron Lady Jo Steven and I took the train to Geneva. We had hoped to hike up Mont Noble in Valais, but the snow was too heavy and the weather too bad, so we decided that Geneva would be a better place to stage a more substantial Monday hike. Amazingly, however, the weather improved by the time we arrived, and so we decided to go for Mont Saleve, taking Bus no. 8 just a hundred meters away from the main station.
View of Lake Geneva from Mont Saleve, with Jet d'Eau on the left
Mont Saleve is counted as one of the top attractions of city, and is even called 'The Balcony of Geneva', but it is actually technically in France, so from the Veyrier Douane bus stop, we crossed the border to France. Fortunately the Schengen agreement has made things really very convenient -- Switzerland joined the borderless zone only very recently. Considering that we only had less than half a day to do the hike and the weather was gloomy, our plan was to take the telepherique from Pas de l'Echelle up, hike through the ridge, and descend via the Grand-Gorge trail.

We started the hike amid alternating drizzles and light snow. Some parts of the trail were muddy, and the winds coming from Lake Geneva were quite chilly especially when we walked in the ridge. As we sought to reach the forested gorge as soon as possible, Jo and I reminisced about some of the wet hikes we've experienced before, most memorably our hike of Halla-san, the highest mountain in South Korea. There was heavy rain from the beginning to the end of the hike and really didn't see anything even if we traversed the mountain (see Hiking matters #103).

Personally I don't really mind wet hikes as long as, firstly, I know I could get dry before I sleep - either back in town, or inside my tent, and secondly, that none of my valuables would get wet. Sometimes, the clouds and fog also create a unique atmosphere for the mountain. In the case of Mont Saleve, as we entered the Grand Gorge, the mist and the barren trees lent some noir to the trails, and I was reminded that this is actually the very place where Frankenstein sought refuge, according to Mary Shelley's novel.

Meanwhile. the Gorge featured some reallly awesome descents through some dramatic rock faces, which the forest cover underplays -- but it is no less dangerous. In one of the rocks, we saw a small memorial tablet for a climber who we surmised must have died there.

But at least we were shielded from the wind and by the time we reached the end of the steep descents, the rains had stopped and it was just a matter to heading back to the bus stop. Soon we found ourselves back in Geneva, where we had some nice couscous dishes that we hoped would foreshadow a North African adventure in the future!

HIKING IN THE JURA MOUNTAINS AND MONT SALEVE
Hiking matters #376: La Dole, Jura Mountains, Switzerland
Hiking matters #377: Mount Saleve, Rhone-Alpes, France
Hiking matters #378: Le Reculet, Jura Mountains, France 

Christmas Day post: Famous trees in Philippine mountains

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LOS BANOS, LAGUNA - Christmas trees remind me of some of the iconic trees that we encounter in some Philippine mountains. Trees are a comforting presence, not only because of their beauty, but also because of the fact that they are always there - a testament to the changelessness that we seek in the mountains. Trees, however, are fragile and in their silence, they speak to us of the need to protect the environment.

1. The tree in Mt. Batulao's Camp 7 (Old Trail) - This beautiful tree is a solitary presence in the penultimate stop before ascending the summit from the Old Trail. In the grassy slopes of Batulao, these trees stand out, representing the resilience of trees as people come and go. It can be very hot in Batulao, and hopefully this tree will continue to provide shade for generations to come.
2. The tree near Gulugod-Baboy's summit - Majestic, this tree stands tall near the third and highest peak of the small Gulugod Baboy Range in Anilao, Batangas.


3. The lone tree in Mt. Pulag's summit slopes - Hikers have given many names to this lone, coniferous tree a few hundred meters away from Mt. Pulag's summit.

4. The viewing tree at Tarak Peak, Mariveles Range - This is another lovely tree that faces Bataan Peak, and from which you can see stunning view of Manila Bay and the West Philippine Sea. Sometimes, this tree will shed all its leaves but during the summer months it is verdant as an evergreen, and is perched proudly near Tarak Peak - a rewarding sight for those ascending via Sky Biscocho's traverse trail.

5. The tree at the summit of Mt. Tapulao - Full of spiraling branches, this tree gives an arcane feel and is a perfect landmark to take pictures at the summit. Thank you Hezron Llanes for reminding me about this tree!

How many of these trees have you visited? Are there other trees that you think should be on this list? Let me know by commenting in this article! Again, Merry Christmas to everyone!

PS: I'll be very grateful if anyone can identify the species of these trees!

Hiking matters #382: A beautiful morning in Mt. Batulao

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It's great to be back home -- naturally, being reunited with loved ones is the main thing, then there is tasting good adobo and rice again -- and of course, there are the mountains that I've missed. One day after I arrived, on Saturday (December 21), I found myself hiking Mt. Batulao, this time with Sheena, who after climbing Maculot and Pico de Loro had looked forward to doing Batulao. Also joining us were teens Arlyn and Alvin.
 
For me, these three mountains are the best ones for those who wish to discover mountain climbing. Maculot is a short and easy hike with rewarding scenery at the top. Pico de Loro, adds variety, with changing environments  and ups and downs in the trail. Batulao gives the opportunity to tread a narrow, rolling trail for a relatively longer period of time, all the while with fantastic views of Batangas - because it has exposed trails I think it is the most dangerous of the three, even if in terms of difficulty I would say it's a toss-up with Pico.
We started trekking at 0630H and the views were magnificent. We saw a lofty Maculot, with a sliver of clouds covering its lower slopes, making it appear like like a blue dome pointing to the sky. Then there was also the Mariveles Range, Talamitam, Pico de Loro, and Mt. Banahaw. As Sheena said, the views looked like paintings from the great masters. Hiking with someone who is climbing the mountain for the first time helps you relive the beauty of the place.



The trails were green and beautiful, and the scenery was fantastic, vivid yet with the colors of early morning. We took a rather relaxed pace via the New Trail and spent most of the morning enjoying the trail, resting at the summit, and then descending via the Old Trail as the sun approached its zenith. Taking our time through the numbered camps and through the valley that separates the Old and the New, we finally reached the trailhead by 1200H and an hour later we were having lunch in Tagaytay. Thanks Sheena!


PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MT. BATULAO
HM #329: Yet again, Batulao (Mar 2013)
HM #366: Green Batulao (Sep 2013)
HM #382: A beautiful morning in Mt. Batulao (Dec 2013)

PinoyMountaineer Top 10 Hikes of 2013

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Continuing my tradition of choosing ten hikes that represents best the adventures I had in the past year, I offer this post today, New Year's Day, filled with excitement for the hikes to come but at the same time with thanksgiving for the successes of the past. I am especially happy with the ascent of Mt. Ragang, the first three hikes of the Grand Cordillera Trail particularly the Ugo-Pulag Traverse, and my second of the Seven Summits, Mt. Elbrus.

Note, these hikes are in chronological order.


1. Ugo-Pulag Traverse  (Benguet - N. Vizcaya - Benguet)
It took us four long days of intense trekking to complete this epic hike but it was greatly rewarding. The villages between Ugo and Pulag are beautiful, and so are the trails that connect them. This hike opens up the possibility of a 'Grand Cordillera Trail' that traverses the entire region, from Ugo to Sagada. The GCT is a project that I hope to continue in 2014.


2. Mt. Ragang (ARMM)
The only one among the 10 highest mountains of the Philippines that has never been previously documented, Mt. Ragang is shrouded in mystery and fear - and it has been the dream climb of many for decades. This year, I decided to give it a try and was rewarded with the most memorable hikes in my life. It turned out to be a difficult mountain in its own right, taking us four days to reach the summit and get back.


3. Akiki-Tawangan Traverse (Benguet)
Continuing the GCT and seeking an alternative to the overcrowded Ambangeg, we did a two-day traverse of Mt. Pulag from the steep and pine-forested Akiki Trail to the more gradual, mossy-forested Tawangan Trail. It was a very beautiful hike and so far my favorite combination of trails up Luzon's highest peak.


4. Cilai Ridge (Taiwan)
Cilai Ridge with its black, barren, intimidating appearance in Central Taiwan was my goal since I completed its more difficult relative, the Holy Ridge, in 2012. So for my 27th birthday I headed there with hiking buddies Coby and Martin. Fortunately we were rewarded with fantastic weather and a breathtaking ridgewalk 3500 meters above sea level.


5. Mt. Halcon (Oriental Mindoro)
Regarded as one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the Philippines, Mt. Halcon has always been one of my goals and when we heard about its reopening we lost no time in mustering an expedition. The approach of the rainy season notwithstanding, we managed to have a fantastic and intense hike. Truly there were lots of limatik but we also had lots of fun! Thank you Dominic and Zeus, as well as my companions Koi and Daryl!


6. Vall de Nuria, Pyrenees (Spain) - Eager to experience Europe's great hiking, I went from Barcelona to Vall de Nuria, a village nestled in a valley in the eastern part of the Pyrenees - or what the Spaniards call Los Pirineos. Within Vall the Nuria I managed to hike up two of the peaks - Puigmal and Pic d'Aliga, and I also walked a lovely section of the GR-10 on the way back.


7. Mt. Elbrus (Russia)
The highest mountain in Europe and one of the Seven Summits, Mt. Elbrus proved to be a tough challenge, especially with volatile weather conditions that forced us to abort the ascent on our scheduled summit day. Faced with limited time but offered a second chance, four of us did our very best and reached the summit.


8.  Vesuvius and Capri (Naples, Italy)
After visiting Rome I went south to Naples, covering much of the island of Capri on foot, and then proceeding to do a hike of one of the world's most famous volcanoes, Mt. Vesuvius. Followed by a sidetrip to Pompeii, this was both a natural and historical journey. Amalfi Coast, which I would have done with Iron Lady Jo Steven had she not been indisposed, will have to wait for a next time!


9. Jura Mountains, (Switzerland and France)
This is actually a trilogy of hikes around the Geneva that I did with my two good friends and mentors, Everest climber Leo Oracion and Iron Lady Jo Steven. Just being reunited with them was rewarding enough, but on top of that, I was rewarded with two hikes in the Jura Mountains - Le Dole and Le Reculet, plus a hike in Mont Saleve, the 'Balcony of Geneva'. Considering that it was already late in autumn and I had limited time, I think I was able to make the most out of the trip.


10. Tinoc and Mt. Napulauan (Benguet and Ifugao)
Attempting to continue to GCT, I went to Tawangan where we ended the previous hike, and continued on to Tinoc. Unfortunately, from Tinoc we had difficulty finding a suitable trail; the old ones had already been expanded to become cement or rough roads. So we instead chartered a vehicle to Hungduan, where we did a dayhike traverse of Mt. Napulauan, which turned out to be a mesmerizing finale for a year of adventure.

Special mention to my frequent companions in these hikes: Coby Sarreal (Ragang, Akiki-Tawangan, Cilai, Elbrus, Napulauan), Chris Tejirian (Ugo-Pulag, Akiki-Tawangan), Daryl Comagon and Koi Grey (Halcon, Tinoc-Napulauan) - as well as to the Mt. Elbrus Team (Carina, Doc Koko, Swami Del, Mutya, Niel, Ed, Doc Jun, Farah, Coby, Cynthia). And of course I greatly appreciate everyone who joined and made these hikes possible!


PINOYMOUNTAINEER TOP 10 HIKES OF THE YEAR
Top 10 Hikes of 2013
Top 10 Hikes of 2012
Top 10 Hikes of 2011 (PH)
Top 10 Hikes of 2011 (International)
Top 10 Hikes of 2010
Top 10 Hikes of 2009
Top 10 Hikes of 2008

Hiking matters #385: The Calauit Trail to Taal Volcano and Crater Lake

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For all its fame as one of the world's most notable and active volcanoes, Taal Volcano in Southern Luzon is not your usual hiking destination; it is seen, like Pinatubo, as more of a place for tourists. It didn't help that horses are at hand and the trail is littered with horse dung, as well as droves of people. Although the view at the top is nice, getting there isn't really attractive prospect for hikers especially if you have to pay way more for it than, say, nearby Mt. Batulao.
The Calauit Trail, however, which approaches the crater rim from the north, offers a much less popular, equally scenic route in the shadow of Mt. Maculot -- and it is actually a nice and easy hike. Furthermore, this trail takes the hiker not just to the crater rim, but down the crater lake - unique for being a 'lake within an island (Volcano island) within a lake (Taal Lake) within and island (Luzon)'.
On Saturday, January 12, I had the opportunity to do this hike with my friends Pam Aquino and Josh Lim. From Tagaytay we went down to Talisay, Batangas and proceed to Taal Lake Yacht Club, which has packages for visits to Taal. For the Calauit trail, the boat rental costs P3,800 (compared to P2,800 for the regular trail) and this is good for 5-6 persons; there are additional fees so in all it cost us P1,400 each. Our boatman-cum-guide was Jayson.
The boat ride itself can be quite tricky. Taal Lake, being the third largest lake in the Philippines, is big enough to have some strong waves and you can get wet before you reach the island. The ride takes around 40 minutes.
Upon arrival at Volcano island, one passes by a small village before entering the gentle, open, and dusty-when-dry trail that is quite scenic, with Mt. Maculot to the east a towering presence, and the view of Taal Lake surrounding the island. As expected from a volcano island there aren't much trees - though the forest that is forming around the rim is a pleasant surprise.
Within thirty minutes or so, one reaches the rim where one can have a nice view of the crater lake. It is beautiful, and just like other volcanic lakes, the colour of the water changes depending on the season, the rainfall, and the time of the day. The tiny islet in the off-center of the lake adds a distinctive feel to it. From the rim, it takes just 15 minutes to reach the crater lake, where one can even swim -- the water is just a bit hot and is mildly sulphuric. 
Because we started late, it was already noontime when we reached the lake and we didn't stay too long. Heading back was as easy as getting in: it took less than an hour for us to return to the boat. What proved much challenging, however, was the return boat ride: at one point the engine stopped, amid formidable waves, and we were soaking wet by the time we reached Talisay. But overall I think it's a worthy trip and I can even suggest it as a good introductory hike. Thanks Jayson and the friendly staff in Taal Lake Yacht Club! 
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