Pinoy Mountaineer

KAGOSHIMA, JAPAN – After the warmup-turned-challenge hike of Homanzan (Hiking matters #521), Jeshua and I proceeded to one of the main prizes of the hiking trip: Mt. Kuju or Kuju Volcano (九重山), the highest mountain in Kyushu Island, and my would-be 8th of the Hyakumeizan.

From Hakata Station we took a Yufuin-bound train to Bungonakamura Station, arriving at 0944H and then catching the 1006H bus to Kuju Volcano National Park, hoping that it would take us to the most suitable trailhead, Makinotoge. The bus, however, stopped at Chojobaru Visitor Center, which is significantly farther from the peak! Considering that we had to catch the 1530H bus back to Bungonakamura, this turned out to be a quite a problem!

So we had no choice but to hike on a fast pace, walking first on the cement road on the direction of the Kuju mountains – later to become a rough road. The first landmark we sought to hit was Sugamori Pass, some 20 minutes from the last section of rough road – this was reminiscent of some of the cols I’ve seen in Switzerland.

From Sugamori Pass, we descended into a volcanic plain, from which we could see one of the active craters of the volcanic mountain range. Another Kapatagan-like ascent led to a saddle connecting to various high peaks! Given our limited time we decided to just aim for Mt. Kuju proper, five meters short of the 1791-meter Nakadake which would have required at least two additional hours.

The summit was beautiful, although the hoped-for views of the other peaks of the Kuju range did not materialize. At 1300H we started descending, reaching the trailhead in time for the 1530H bus back to Bungonakamura.

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KAGOSHIMA – From Fukuoka’s Hakata Station, Jeshua and I took the Kyushu Shinkansen to the southern city of Kagoshima, then jumped on another train to Kirishima Jingu Station, and there we caught a bus to Ebinokogen (via Maruo Onsen), deep into the volcanic realm of Kirishima (霧島山). It was a complicated route, but fortunately, one that went more smoothly than Kuju Volcano the day before (see Hiking matters #522).

Like Kuju, Kirishima is actually a group of volcanoes, and if only we had the luxury of time, we could have spent two days just hiking around. Given the constraints of public transport, however, we decided to just aim for the highest peak, Mt. Karakunidake (1700m), with the bonus of traversing Lake Onami.

The hike was thoroughly beautiful, every minute of it. We ascended on a gentle trail featuring grassland Unlike the cemented paths of Homanzan and the rocky slopes of Kuju, Kirishima had trails featuring actual soil, making for a pleasant walk – and even the rocky summit was not a challenge at all to walk through.
We reached the summit after less than two hours or so of trekking. After another onigiri lunch, we traversed towards Lake Onami, descending down a wooden path surrounded by volcanic flora. The intermittent appearances of the lake ahead of us proved to be a very enchanting sight.

At the foot of the lake, we took the Eastern Circuit, which would take us to the highest point of the rim, around 1465 MASL. We were surprised to see that it’s actually still part of the Kyushu Nature Trail, even though we were hundreds of kilometers away from Homanzan! There were so many viewpoints to enjoy the lake, which was truly a feast for the eyes!

Finally we left the beautiful ridge of Lake Onami, and descended via a beautiful forest to reach the bus stop where we awaited the bus back to Maruo Onsen, where a Lawson’s provided some postclimb treats before we caught the bus back to Kagoshima.

HIKING IN KYUSHU (SUMMER 2016)
Hiking matters #521: Homanzan in Fukuoka
Hiking maters #522: Kuju Volcano, the highest in Kyushu
Hiking matters #523: Kirishima Volcano
Hiking matters #524: Kaimondake, the “Fuji of Kyushu”

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FUKUOKA, JAPAN – From our spellbinding hike in Mt. Kirishima (See Hiking matters #523) we headed to Kagoshima, the beautiful coastal city of Southern Kyushu. Early the next day we took the very first train – 0451H – to Kaimon station, heading further south down to the tip of Ibusuki peninsula.

Kaimon is known for its conical, Fuji-esque appearance – earning for it the monicker of “Satsuma-Fuji”. Although only 924m, it is this cultural significance that has likely earned it a coveted spot in the “Hyakumeizan” – Japan’s “100 Famous Mountains”.

The hike was divided into 10 stations, with the 10th corresponding to the summit. Up to the 2nd station the hike actually goes through a cement road, before entering a woodland – which was lovely were it not for persistent large flies that seemingly orbit around each hiker (it is summer, after all).

The trail is a straightforward ascent, basically spiraling up the mountain – and as Wes’ very helpful blog pointed out – without any switchbacks. The 5th station offered some benches and a viewpoint, while the rock part commenced around the 7th-8th station.

A small red tori signals the end of the trail. At the summit we had fantastic views of the southern coast of Kyushu as far as Yakushima, as well as Lake Ikeda – the largest lake in Kyushu Island. To the north, we could see as far as Sakurajima and behind it, the peaks of Kirishima.

There was no need to hurry on the way down as the next train isn’t until 1408H. So we descended at a leisurely pace, killing time at the 5th station (which happened to be a Pokestop), and even grabbing some celebratory Calpis Water at one of the vending machines near the train station. Fortunately, the train we took led all the way back to Kagoshima!

This ends the ‘winning streak’ of three Hyakumeizan in three days: Kuju, Kirishima, and Kaimon! Mt. Aso is closed due to a recent eruption, and we felt that heading to Mt. Sobo is worthwhile only if it can be combined with Aso. As for Mt. Miyanoura in Yakushima – that too, will have to wait. But my Kyushu trip has given me plenty of reasons to come back.

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14812903_10154673532954521_110781584_o — Photo courtesy of Glenn Ong at Busay, Cebu

by Gideon Lasco

Ah, the cool breeze, the sky full of stars, the nocturnal music of the forest! Camping is one of the greatest rewards of going outdoors, but it can also be very unpleasant – depending on the people at camp. Every camper must follow the proper etiquette while at camp for it to be a great experience for everyone. Here are eight tips for behaving properly on camp:

1. Give camping space to others. When you are the first to arrive at the campsite, it’s natural for you to pick the best spot, but make sure that others have enough space. Occupy only what is needed, and make sure others have convenient access to the water source, the trail, and the latrines.

2. Do not walk through other’s campsites. Walk around them instead. This

3. Don’t just poo or pee anywhere. It’s unfortunate that this still has to be mentioned, but I have seen people who simply go to the trail and do ‘number 2’ in the trail itself, or very near it. This is especially true in very popular campsites. Check out this guide on how to take a dump outdoors.

4. Avoid loud noises at all times, and observe silence at night. At any given time that you’re on a campsite (or in the outdoors in general), it’s never a good idea to be noisy. And this is especially true at night when people are trying to rest for the next day. Even if your group wants to stay up until midnight, others may want to sleep early. Learn more about “letting nature’s sounds prevail” in this essay.

5. Be helpful. Be of assistance to your fellow hikers – if they forget a can of butane, you can save their necks by graciously offering a spare one. The golden rule is also the rule of the jungle.

6. Be friendly, but respect others’ privacy. By all means be friendly to others campers – invite them to join your socials – but others may also want their own private time that you should also respect. Also, don’t pressure anyone to drink alcohol.

7. Be nice to the guides too Guides are really appreciate of hikers who make them feel part of the team. Include them in your meals and your socials, and they will be more motivated to be nice to your group as well. Check out “Hiking advice: A guide to guides” for more information.

8. Don’t forget to practice Leave No Trace principles. Actually, it is camping that poses the most impact in hiking activities. You can minimize this by making sure you pick up your garbage, that you’re not cutting trees or damaging the plants just for your to camp, and that you’re avoiding possible fire hazards – among others. Check out this post for the Leave no Trace principles.

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FUKUOKA, JAPAN – Three months after our very successful Kyushu summer hiking trip, we are back in Japan’s southernmost main island, this time to see its mountains in autumn. Just three hours away from Manila by plane, Kyushu has become my ideal launching pad for my Japan hiking goals, and the island itself still offers a number of exciting prospects, including the three remaining Hyakumeizan I haven’t done here: Mt. Sobo, Mt. Aso, and Miyanoura-dake in Yakushima island.

In any case, I had to limit myself to mountains that are more accessible to Fukuoka, and so for my first hike I went for Mt. Yufu (Yufudake; 由布岳) in Oita Prefecture in the island’s northeast. At 1583 MASL a volcano like Kuju and Aso, it offered a worthy dayhike in the order of Mt. Cristobal or Mt. Arayat, and I hoped for some fall colors.

From Fukuoka’s Hakata Station, we took a train to the town of Yufuin at the foot of Mt. Yufu, and from there we took a bus (360 JPY) to the trailhead. After a short section of grassland slope that offered a spectacular view of the mountain, we entered a forest and proceeded on a switchback-intensive trail that meandered through it. True to our hopes, the fall colors had began to show, although not yet at their zenith.

Past the forest, the switchbacks continued through a more open terrain, grassy and somewhat rocky, as is typical of many volcanoes (think Mt. Apo past the Boulders). Eventually, we reached a saddle where we had to choose between the more precarious, and slightly higher West Peak (left), and the easier East peak (right). Needless to say we chose the former!

It was indeed steep, but metal chains provided support in the more precarious parts. It took around 15-20 minutes to reach the very summit, which offered scenic views of the surrounding mountains and towns.

At the summit of Mt. Yufu in Kyushu, Japan

Mindful of the need to return to Fukuoka on the same day, we headed back the same way, missing out on the East Peak – but still returning via the special Yufuin no Mori train very happy with the day’s walk.

AUTUMN HIKES IN KYUSHU (2016)

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FUKUOKA, JAPAN – As soon as we started to ascend through the stone staircase surrounded by the torii, temples and shrines of Mt. Hiko (英彦山), I was immediately reminded of Mt. Hiei in Kyoto, which I climbed at pretty much the same time of the year in 2011. Indeed, Hikosan’s cedar forests have been rightfully compared with the holy mountains in Japan’s main island, and it is a refreshing sight.

It was the second hike of our autumn trip, after a fantastic ascent of Mt. Yufu. Back at Fukuoka, we took three different trains that took us from Hakata Station to Hikosan Station, and from there we took the Buzenbou-bound bus and got off at Kane-no-Torii (200 JPY, 15 mins). The trail here starts, directly leading to the summit. A monorail (560 JPY), which we took out of curiosity, abbreviates the trail by around 30 minutes – not really a significant boost.

From the succession of temples and shrines, the trail enters a cedar forest, and we were enveloped with fog as we passed through this section, making for a soulful sojourn amid the plummeting temperature (we had a low of 5 C) and a continuous, occasionally challenging ascent:

Fog blankets the world
But only for a moment
Love has come and gone

Fortunately the Central Peak, Naka-dake, wasn’t too far away. An abandoned structure stands at the very top, taking away the ‘summit feeling’ while up there. Fortunately, there’s a slightly-higher peak, Minami-dake (South Peak), just 200 meters away. The fog had gone just as we were ascending this peak, revealing the vivid autumn colors all over the mountain – it was beautiful!

From Minami-dake, a traverse is possible, but since one of our companions, Cynthia, had a flight to catch, we decided to just head back to the Center Peak en route to Kane-no-Torii, where we arrived just in time for the bus back to Hikosan Station, and then to Hakata.

AUTUMN HIKES IN NORTHERN KYUSHU (2016)
Hiking matters #515: Mt. Yufu 由布岳
Hiking matters #516: Hikosan 英彦山
Hiking matters #517: Raizan 雷山

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SAN JOSE, COSTA RICA – Unfortunately I only had four days in Kyushu, and I had to devote one day to go to Kokura (Kitakyushu) – a historic city in itself, and home to one of the novelists I admire, Mori Ogai. In any case, on the fourth day, I knew I had to do something as the two hikes, while very rewarding in themselves, can be augmented with one more.

So I decided to look no farther than Fukuoka itself, where there are a number of interesting hikes. I looked at the possibility of doing a Raizan to Ibarayama Traverse, but since I had a flight to catch that evening, I didn’t want to risk doing such an ambitious hike especially since I’ll be hiking by myself. So I decided to do Raizan (Mt. Rai) instead.

From Hakata Station I took a train that brought me directly to the Chikuzen Maebaru Station via the subway line that becomes the JR Meinohama line. From this station, I waited for the bus that headed towards the Raizan Kannon Mae Bus Stop (雷山観音前バス停) which serves as the trailhead for the hike.

I followed directions towards Mt. Rai through a forested path that leads, after 45 minutes or so, to a waterfall. Past the waterfall, the next landmark was a shrine dedicated to the thunder god Raijin (雷神), after whom the mountain is named. Past that, the summit was less than an hour away, and with a view of the Northern Kyushu mountains, it was beautiful – and well worth the day.

AUTUMN HIKES IN NORTHERN KYUSHU (2016)
Hiking matters #515: Mt. Yufu 由布岳
 Hiking matters #516: Hikosan 英彦山
Hiking matters #517: Raizan 雷山

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Volcan Baru summit — At the summit of Volcan Baru (3475m), the highest mountain in Panama, with the Caribbean Sea at the background.

BOQUETE, PANAMA – Central America is replete with volcanoes, which, like the ones in the Philippines, Japan, and Indonesia, are part of the ‘Pacific Ring of Fire’. Last week, I decided to embark on a journey across this region to experiencing its rich culture and of course, climb as many of the volcanoes as I can!

And so I found myself in the highland town of Boquete in Chiriqui Province, Panama, a day after visiting the Panama Canal. Boquete is the staging off point for hikes up Volcan Baru – the highest mountain in Panama, which I really wanted to climb as it seemed to be a worthy challenge – at 3475 MASL, it is 500 meters higher than Mt. Apo.

It started with a 20-minute shared van ride (5 USD) from Boquete to the entrance of Volcan Baru National Park. At right about midnight, I started trekking from the elevation of around 1800 MASL – alongside two travellers I met along the day: Marjo from Holland and Ben from England.

From the beginning, it was Tapulao-like, with a rough road doubling as the trail. The challenge of the hike was made clear early on: it was 14 kms going up, making for a total of 28 kms, and placing it in the level of an Ugo Traverse dayhike. The altitude gain, too, was quite formidable: almost 1600 meters!

Fortunately the weather was clear – apparently, an uncommon occurrence. Illuminated by the supermoon, there were times when I didn’t even have to use my headlamp…it was a night trek, but not a dark one!

Still jetlagged and fatigued by the travel from Manila and Amsterdam, I didn’t want to overexert myself, so I took the trail easy. Fortunately, there weren’t really any challenging or technical parts – it’s really just one very long hike!

When I finally arrived at the summit, it was almost 0600H – but the sunrise wasn’t until 0623H. There at the summit, we enjoyed the marvelous views of both the Pacific and the Caribbean. The way down was heavy on the knees, but the multitude of birds – including various hummingbirds – kept me going.

VOLCANO HIKING IN CENTRAL AMERICA
Hiking matters #518: Volcan Baru – Panama
Hiking matters #519: Volcan Irazu – Costa Rica
Hiking matters #520: Volcan Maderas – Nicaragua
Hiking matters #521: Volcan Concepcion – Nicaragua
Hiking matters #522: Volcan San Cristobal – Nicaragua
Hiking matters #523: Volcan Telica – Nicaragua
Hiking matters #524: Volcan Acatenango – Guatemala

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GUATEMALA CITY – Continued from Hiking matters #518: From Boquete, Panama, I went back to David and took the Tracopa bus to San Jose, Costa Rica. After spending the night in Costa Rica’s capital city, I went on a daytrip to Volcan Irazu, one of the country’s most popular volcanoes.

From Guatemala City I took the one and only bus to Volcan Irazu that leaves at 0800H, and arrived in Irazu around two hours later. From the park entrance, I walked up the summit, and even though it was a cloudy day, managed a bit of a clearing – enough to see the craters underneath.

From the summit I explored the craters, and caught the same bus back to San Jose. I would have wanted to explore the other volcanoes of Costa Rica – including Chirripó – the highest peak in the country – but since it was still rainy season in Costa Rica, I decided to head north for better weather. And so a day after hiking Irazú, I found myself in Ometepe Island in Nicaragua. Continued in Hiking matters #520.

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GUATEMALA CITY – Continued from Hiking matters #519: From San Jose, I decided to proceed directly to Nicaragua. I took the TransNica bus to Managua, in what turned out to be a smoother ride that I expected. Although I originally planned to go straight to León – a great base for volcanoes, I was so enchanted by the sight of the two volcanoes of Ometepe Island that I decided to get off at Rivas and take the ferry from San Jorge pier to the island.

At Moyogalpa, I met with a Nica guy named Moses and a Canadian named Neil, who were also planning to climb one of the volcanoes – Volcan Maderas – the next day, and I decided to tag along with them. Moses’ crazy plan was to rent scooters and bike all the other end of the island – a 28-km ride. Soon, I found myself on the front seat of a habal-habal as we biked up rough mountain roads! Fortunately, they were just short stretches.

We approached Volcan Maderas from the north – and it was Makiling-like in terms of its forested and moderate trails ascending to the elevation of 1395 MASL.

From the summit, a 10-minute descent is all it took us to reach the famed crater lake, which was unfortunately too clouded over for us to appreciate: it reminded me of my Mt. Mandalagan hike in Negros where I ended up not seeing much of Tinagong Dagat (see Hiking matters #284!)

Even so, it was still a great hike – especially since I managed to do its companion mountain, Volcan Concepcion, the next day, in better weather! The Central America journey continues in Hiking matters #521!

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ANTIGUA GUATEMALA – After the enjoyable hike up Volcan Maderas, I arranged for a hike up its taller, tougher counterpart, the active Volcan Concepcion – 1610 meters above sea level. In the past century Concepción has erupted over 20 times, the last one being in March 2010. Throughout the island one can still see signs for the ruta de evacuaciones.

The hike up Concepcion is roughly divided into two parts: a walk through a beautiful forest, and, from 1000 MASL, the assault up volcanic slopes to reach the summit. In the forest, we saw two types of monkeys: the howlers with their distinctive sounds, and the white-faced moneys (mono cara blanca). We also saw some majestic trees, including a giant ceiba – a national symbol of Nicaragua (below).

Past the forest, we reached a saddle that reminded me of Tarak Ridge, except that, instead of Manila Bay, we were facing Lake Nicaragua. After a short break here, we ascended the volcanic slopes. It is beyond the saddle where the ‘real fun begins’ – we faced strong winds as we made our way up the rocky and sometimes precarious slopes (where hiker deaths have been reported).

Unfortunately, when we finally reached the summit, there was no view in sight – it was completely cloudy! Even so, I was delighted to reach Nicaragua’s second highest volcano – and one of the hikes I really wanted to do even when I was planning for the whole journey in the Philippines.

I would have personally wanted to hang out in the while for the summit in the hope that it might clear out a bit after some time, but my Norweigian companion wanted to start the descent – and I also had to catch the ferry in the hope of spending the night in Managua – Nicaragua’s capital. And so after just a few minutes at the summit, we proceeded with the descent.

The way down, of course, was much more straightforward, and below 1400 MASL it was much clearer – once again, we could see the whole lake, including Volcan Mombacho in the North. I took time to sit on the rocks facing the saddle to appreciate the grandeur of the island volcano.

Hours later, after a celebratory lunch in Moyogalpa, I found myself on the ferry to San Jorge, and from there I took a chicken bus to Managua. The wonderful town of Leon was waiting for me the next day, but I will always cherish the two volcanoes in Ometepe Island!

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ANTIGUA GUATEMALA – From Managua, I took a van to Leon, and immediately headed to the Quetzaltrekkers office to ask about their scheduled hikes. Fortunately, they had a dayhike to Volcan San Cristobal the next day! This volcano is the highest in Nicaragua and I wasn’t really expecting that I could hike it, given the time-consuming logistics. I immediately signed up.

The next day, after 2-hour road trip through mostly rough roads, I found myself face to face with another volcano – this time, Nicaragua’s highest. I thought it would be less challenging than Concepcion, given the higher elevation of the trailhead. But no – it turned out to be more difficult! Unlike Concepcion whose first half was forested and gradual, San Cristobal is one big assault upon a much more slippery volcanic slope!

Indeed, after the preliminary hour of hiking, the rest of the hike involved lifting one’s self through a slippery slope of volcanic sand, where it feels like the act of stepping up pulls you down by half a step – making it much more of an effort!

At the summit, one can see the entire chain of volcanoes in the South – all the way to Volcan Momotombo at the edge of Lake Managua. Cerro Negro, Telica, and El Hoyo could also be appreciated, and on the other side, one can already see the plains of Honduras.

The winds were very strong at the summit and we rested in the rocks just beneath it while waiting for the whole team to arrive. The descent which ensued was much easier – definitely no more than two hours – you can literally slide down the volcanic sand! Although I didn’t get to try volcano boarding in Cerro Negro (I wanted to do so but it wasn’t really my priority since it’s an easy hike), the slide down San Cristobal is very similar and it was really fun!

Quetzaltrekkers is a hiking company based in Leon that gives all of their profits for the benefit of streetchildren. I highly recommend their service! As we were heading back to Leon, our guide willingly arranged for me and one of the other hikers in our group, Kim, to join yet another hike on that same day: Volcan Telica! Catch the adventure in Hiking matters #523!

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A trekking pole is a valuable tool for hiking – an extension of one’s arm that allows hikers to gain additional support when ascending, moderate the impact on the knees while descending, probe the terrain – among many other functions. Because I hike very regularly (at least once a week whenver I can), what I value the most is the cushion it provides on high-impact hikes.

The Bivouac Windu Trekking Pole (disclosure: I helped design the pole) is a basic, lightweight trekking pole that makes use a folding system similar to Black Diamond’s ‘Flicklock’ – but at the same time offering it at P950 a piece – less than half the price of ‘branded’ competitors.

Weighing only 250g, the Bivouac Windu Trekking Pole is made of sturdy aluminium alloy and two adjustable ‘flip lock’ segments that makes it easy to use – and also prevents it from mechanism damage with which the screw-type adjustment system is prone to.

In terms of functionality, the fact that the Windu trekking pole has a shock absorber allows it to reduce impact not just on the knees but also on the arm and the elbow of the operating hand. A comfortable rubber grip with a non-slip EVA foam grip extension adds ergonomic usability especially for those who are doing long dayhikes or multi-day hikes.

For its part, the tip can be customized for alpine conditions with a rubber tip that comes with the pole. While carbon fiber sticks are even ligher, considering that they come with triple or quadruple the price makes the Bivouac Windu really a great value for a no-nonsense basic trekking pole that you can use in every hike.

The Bivouac Windu Trekking Pole is available in SANDUGO BASEKAMP Stores in Trinoma, Market Market, Starmall Alabang, Fairview Terraces, Gaisano Davao and Gaisano CDO.

It is also Available in all the Perfect White Shirt Branches:

Alabang Town Center (ATC)
Upper Ground Floor, Connector Mall
(in between Hush Puppies and Adidas)
Contact number:
Globe: 0917-5164338
Landline: 02-5031791

Glorietta
1st Floor, Glorietta 3 (near McDonald’s)
Contact number:
Globe: 0917-5096899
Landline: 02-5032142

Market! Market! Outlet Store
2nd Floor, Fashion Market Area
Contact number:
Globe: 0917-5089618
Landline: 02-5032203

Trinoma
2nd Floor Teenzone (behind Starbucks, in front of Artwork and Converse)
Contact number:
Globe: 0917-3256583
Landline: 02-5064262

Main Office (Pasig)
Contact number:
Globe: 0917-5164409
Landline: 02-7389443, 02-5031581

For SHIPPING / PROVINCIAL orders you can also visit this online store.

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Weather is usually great right after a storm, and when it became clear that Typhoon Nina had safely left Luzon, we decided to push through with an afternoon hike up Mt. Maculot’s Rockies, with an eye for viewing the sunset. In this hike which I co-organized with Angel Locsin, we were joined by our fellow taong bundok from last week’s Maynoba (see Hiking matters #530) plus some fresh faces (Shoutout to longtime ‘Hiking matters’ reader Easy Ferrer and trail jester Yassi Pressman).

It was already 1445H when we got to start the hike at the trailhead in Cuenca. With two guides (Note: I disagree with the policy of requiring everyone to get guides – see my position paper here – but I understand and respect the locals’ stand on this matter), we proceed to take the trail to the Rockies, which is really very straightforward, and thankfully undamaged by the storm.

Maculot is really a beginner-friendly mountain and everyone managed to reach the Rockies by 1640H – almost two hours after we started. As to be expected, a lot of time was spent at the Rockies itself, taking pictures in various viewpoints and rock formations. We stayed until the sunset, which turned out to be as beautiful as a red angel!

Darkness set in by the time we descended from the campsite; it took us an hour to negotiate the same trail. Fortunately, everyone came prepared with headlamps and managed the night trek very well. A postclimb diner at Hapag Filipino in Lipa ensued – a perfect end to a fun afternoon hike! Thank you to everyone who joined and assisted us!

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Almost two years after doing the epic Pantingan-Tarak Traverse Dayhike (which has since come to be known as ‘PanTarak’) as the first-ever team to do so (see Hiking matters #386-387), my good friends Koi Grey, Jeshua Sales and I returned to relive the great experience (sorry Daryl and Coby!). Starting the hike at exactly 0300H (thank you Sugar Sales for chaperoning us!), we lost no time in making our way to Pantingan Peak, reaching its summit at 0715H – a little bit better than our original record of 4 hrs 30 mins.

This section – actually an entire hike in itself with over 1000 meters altitude gain, features a short rough road section before entering a rainforest notorious for its bees. Past this forest, one passes through a grassland that, via Danny’s Gate, reenters the forest which has a trail characterised by continuous assaults all the way to 1408 MASL. What a workout – even as the hike is actually just beginning!

After breaking our fast in Pantingan, we proceeded to the ridges, and then, finally, at 0900H, we started the 400-meter descent to the crater of Mariveles Range, reaching Bakwat River at 1000H. What ensued was a rolling trek through the slopes within the crater itself; it would take several ups and downs before we finally set foot on the ascending trail that led to El Saco Peak.

The trail has greatly improved since we first passed through it. Even though it was still reminiscent of the old, overgrown Talomo-Apo Traverse, this time there were no really bolo-requiring obstacles and we felt very comfortable throughout. We were at El Saco by 1215H, Tarak Peak by 1300H, and by 1630H we were at Nanay Cording’s – making for a total of 13 hours and 30 minutes, versus the 20 hours it took us the first time around.

What an enjoyable hike! I definitely look forward to doing it again in the future!

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15440301_1686016744757744_3830074204731519775_o — Photo courtesy of Rex Lim

After my 10-volcano expedition in Central America, I was eager to climb my home mountains again and what better way to spend my first day in the Philippines outdoors than to do a Mt. Tapulao dayhike! Featuring a stated 18 kms (I think it’s slightly shorter) and over 1800 MASL altitude gain, the only reason I haven’t been able to do this more often is its distance from Manila (see Hiking matters #268 for my previous hike here).

And so we headed to Zambales via NLEX and SCTEX, reaching Subic at around 0500H and the trailhead at 0700. Alas, we were delayed by the poor road conditions leading to the Sitio Dampay jumpoff. Undaunted, we started hiking, fully aware of the endless ahead through rocky road that was ahead of us. (In retrospect, one must really have a very early start for a more relaxed dayhike)

It’s very important to bring good footwear in Mt. Tapulao. Ideally, your hiking shoes must be sturdy enough so that the hard surface of the rocks won’t your feet. I brought my trusted Merrell Capra Mid Waterproof, which has become my go-to shoes for challenging dayhikes.

The trail is a continuous assault up rocky road until the 10-km mark. Past it, pine trees begin to appear, making for some scenic stretches – for me the real high point of the ‘High Peak’. There are two water sources before reaching Km. 16 – the site of Camp 2. It took us almost 5 hours to this camp, where we had a quick lunch between continuing to the summit, reaching it at 1320H – 6 hours 20 minutes after we started.

From the campsites, a ‘real trail’ ensues, first through a pine forest and then to a mossy forest to reach the summit, with its iconic world tree (I support the move to forbid hikers from climbing on it). The descent of course was just as endless as the ascent – if not seemingly more so – but it was nonetheless enjoyable, and left me with enough energy to do a Pantingan-Tarak Traverse dayhike two days later. Thanks to everyone who joined this Tapulao hike!

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After two intense hikes in Central Luzon, I went for a more relaxing weekend hike in Mt. Maynoba, Tanay, Rizal. Nearly 500 days after our Pico de Loro hike, it was great to be hiking again with Angel Locsin, alongside her brother Angelo, Bubbles and Paolo Paraiso, as well as their friends.

After much hype over its famed sea of clouds, the number of visitors to Maynoba has stabilized, and days with the “sea of clouds” have become fewer and far between this time of the year. It would appear that February to June is really the season for sea of clouds in Rizal.

As with our previous hike, the route begins with Cayabu, proceeds to Maynoba (also pronounced and spelled as Maynuba) and continues to an even-higher point in the foothills of Mt. Batolusong. It descends down a river system with some mini-falls, before ending again in Brgy. Cayabu – in what makes for a nice loop hike, the absence of the sea of clouds notwithstanding.

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Photo at Lake Venado, Mt. Apo courtesy of Lem G Peña

The prohibition to climb Mt. Apo as a result of last year’s forest fire has been lifted by the Protected Area Management Board (PAMB) of Mt. Apo Natural Park, mountaineers learned today. As relayed by the Facebook page of the Mindanao Mountaineering Federation, the permit fee will be P2,000 and P2,500 for standard and peak season, respectively, significantly higher than the previous collections that ranged from P1,000 to P1,500. In addition to the permit fees, hikers will be levied exit fees of P1,000 to P1,500 if they decide to traverse. Following this policy, Kidapawan Trail is scheduled to reopen on April 12, 2017.

The order, however, has already drawn mixed reactions from the mountaineering community. Many hikers, particularly in Mindanao, feel that the reopening, happening just a year after the devastating forest fires, is too soon. “Agad-agad?” one hiker asked.

WHAT WENT BEFORE: Remembering the forest fires of 2016

Others lamented the fee of up to P4,000 for those who will be doing a traverse during peak season would make Mt. Apo by far the most expensive mountain in the Philippines – effectively restricting access to those who can afford this fee. The revenue, which would run to millions, raises questions of where it would be spend, and who would be accountable for it.

READ: Pinoy Mountaineer position paper on registration fees

This is a developing story and we will add more details as soon as we get them. What are your thoughts and reactions to the reopening of Mt. Apo and the new fees? Share your thoughts with us by commenting.

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15388718_10154610261510926_29572314_o — Photo of Mt. Apo from Mt. Talomo courtesy of Paolo Duran

by Gideon Lasco

In the aftermath of last year’s forest fire that ravaged Mt. Apo, local authorities pledged to close the mountain for 3-5 years to allow its recovery. At the time, Kidapawan City mayor Joseph Evangelista said: “We have to sacrifice in closing the annual climb as I cannot sacrifice Mt. Apo that has served as landmark for greatness for centuries through its rich natural resources.” Across the board, officials seconded the motion; Roberto Alabado III, the regional director of the Department of Tourism in Southern Mindanao, supported the move, saying: “Our focus is mainly for sustainable tourism…we have to consider the carrying capacity and the health of the environment before we encourage tourism activity in the area.”

That these pronouncements would be discarded in favor of a reopening, less than a year after the devastating incident that affected over 300 hectares of forest in one of our country’s most important natural wonders, is troubling, to say the least. What made the authorities change their mind? Given the way Mt. Apo was run in the past, is 11 months enough to come up with a regularized scheme that will guarantee safeguards for the mountain, and a more efficient regulatory framework for hikers?

Equally troubling is the new policy that raises fees to P2,000-P4,000 (the price range depends on the season and whether you’re going to traverse or not). The fees before were already expensive to begin with, and this new price regime makes things even worse. I have heard the argument that it is to limit the number of hikers, but I think there are better and fairer ways to do this; I would prefer the privilege to climb a mountain to be based on one’s sense of responsibility rather than one’s ability to pay. I’m all for livelihood for communities and revenue for the LGUs – but I’m also for fairness and reasonableness. It must be recalled that even before the forest fires, there have already been questions raised about accountability of the funds collected. With 1,000-1,500 collected per hiker and thousands of hikers visiting each year, the fees easily amounted to millions each year. Ironically, the LGUs complained of lack of funds for fighting the fires and patrol the mountains. Where have these funds gone?

In response to the recent developments, then, I am first of all calling for transparency on the part of the PAMB and the LGUs in their decision-making process, in light of their previous statements. If indeed “sustainable tourism” is their priority, they need to show that mechanisms are in place to make this happen. If indeed, as they said just last year, the mountain takes time to heal, they need to show that the mountain has indeed healed enough to reopen it to hiking activities. I do not yet see the justification for its opening; the burden of scientific proof must lie on the PAMB to show that the mountain has recovered and is ready.

Secondly, if the reopening does push through, I am calling for fairness in terms of the fees, and, regardless of how much will be collected per person, accountability in terms of how the funds will be spent. With thousands of visitors, this will amount to millions in revenue that must be used for the benefit of the mountain and the communities. With this kind of fee structure, there is no excuse for lack of human resources to patrol the mountain.

Thirdly, I am calling for consensus on the part of mountaineers as to how we can respond to this development – a consensus that I hope will extend to the PAMB. and other stakeholders, in the form of meaningful dialogue. Mountaineers from Mindanao, who are much more familiar with the situation than we are, would know best what steps to take, and we are ready to listen to and support their positions about this matter. Ultimately, despite our differences, our priority should always be the protection and conservation of Mt. Apo and working together towards this goal.

Feedback at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com

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CAMIGUIN NORTE – After the very memorable trip to Babuyan Island that saw us climbing Smith Volcano (Hiking matters #547) and Mt. Babuyan Claro (#548), we boarded the M/V Angelica to Camiguin de Babuyanes – also known as Camiguin Norte. But we had a very important detour to make: a visit to Didicas Volcano, the volcano island that emerged from the sea after a volcanic eruption in 1952 and rose to over 200 meters above sea level. This volcano held much significance for our group as we wanted to visit all four active volcanoes of the Babuyan Islands.

We left Babuyan at 0710H, amid significantly rougher waters compared to our previous two legs. Although Didicas was visible early on, it took well over five hours for us to approach the island. We semi-circumnavigated it, glancing at the sulfuric vents in the upper reaches. Even without landing, it was very clear to us that the volcano could not be climbed at the moment – nor would it be safe to attempt an exploration, as the rocks look as if they would erode anytime.

Even so, there was a small beach made of volcanic sand and we managed to land there – three at a time, just to have photographic documentation of the volcano. Because the currents were strong we could only use the raft to make a landing – which in my case was quite rough. We were very elated nonetheless as we reached one of the most distant – and likely the youngest – Philippine island.

It was already past 1400H by the time we were able to leave Didicas and head for Camiguin Norte. Camiguin de Babuyanes – our final – was visible, Cristobal-like in shape even as we were in Didicas, but it would take almost four more hours before we would arrive in Brgy. Naguillan and spend our last night in the beautiful Babuyan islands.

VOYAGE TO THE VOLCANIC ISLANDS OF BABUYAN
Hiking matters #546: Trekking in Calayan Island, Babuyan
Hiking matters #547: Smith Volcano (Mt. Pokis) in Babuyan Island
Hiking matters #548: Mt. Babuyan Claro (Chinteb a Wasay) in Babuyan Island
Hiking matters #549: A visit to Didicas Volcano, Philippines’ youngest island
Hiking matters #550: Hiking up Mt. Camiguin de Babuyanes

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