Pinoy Mountaineer

BARCELONA, SPAIN - It's been my mini-tradition to blog about outdoor shops I encounter in my travels. Check this linkfor what I've posted in the past. I didn't have enough time to check out the outdoor shops in Paris and Amsterdam but was able to do so in Barcelona. So here goes:

1. Decathlon (www.decathlon.es) - This is a chain of outdoor and sporting mega-shops operating in many countries, including Singapore and China. There are several branches in the Barcelona area. The one I visited was close to La Rambla, Barcelona's most famous street. One entire floor is devoted to the outdoors! The main in-house brand is Quechua but there are many others. Quechua has very competitive prices and a really pair of trekking pants is on sale at EUR49.

Decathlon Barcelona

Carrer de la Canuda, 20 *

08002 Barcelona, Spain

+34 933 42 61 61

Decathlon Barcelona

Avinguda Diagonal, 557

Barcelona

+34 934 44 01 54

2. Vertic Outdoors (verticoutdoor.com) - This one, I think, is more 'hardcore' than Decathlon and their people really know what they are talking about. They even have boots for Mt. Everest, and their selection of clothing and gear is vast (check out their online catalog). Some interesting brands that are not available in the Philippines include the Italian Salewa and the Swedish brand Haglöfs. There are three branches in Barcelona, but the first one is the most accessible from the city center:

Vertic Barcelona *

Address: C/ Rocafort, 135

08015 – Barcelona

Phone: 93 511 66 76

Vertic Sabadell

Address: Ctra. Barcelona, 19- 21

08201 – Sabadell (Barcelona)

Phone: 93 745 03 69

Vertic Manresa

Address: C/ Carrasco i Formiguera, 33

08242 – Manresa (Barcelona)

Phone: 93 877 40 42

3. Intersport Barcelona (intersport.com) - Another global 'mega-store'e this one located in the Gracia area of the city, plus some other branches:

OUTDOOR GRACIA *

Bonavista, 35 08012

Barcelona

93 415 50 74

INTERSPORT SKI CENTER

Diputació, 374

08013 BARCELONA

932329113

INTERSPORT POBLE NOU

Calle Bilbao 54

08005 Barcelona

0034 93 307 64 00

INTERSPORT FARGLO

Centro Comercial Centre de la Vila, Avenida Icaria 166

08005 Barcelona

0034 93 221 81 28

INTERSPORT POBLE NOU

Rambla Prim 27

08019 Barcelona

0034 93 307 75 67

4. Esports Mañanes (esportsmananes.com) - Unlike the above, this one seems to be a standalone store but also with a nice selection - and some good deals. The store is very near the Decathlon in Carrer de la Canuda:

Esports Mañanes

Carrer de la Canuda, 26,

08002 Barcelona

+34 933 18 45 00 ‎

5. Brand stores and Los Cortes Ingles - There is a Salewa store just beside the Decathlon store I mentioned above; there is also The North Face in the Gran Via. The big department stores of El Corte Ingles - the 'SM of Spain' - are also worth visiting.

HIKING IN CATALONIA, SPAIN
Hiking mattters #345: Trekking in Tarragona, Spain
Hiking matters #346: Vall de Nuria Hiking - Puigmal
Hiking matters #347: Vall de Nuria Hiking - Pic de l'Aliga
Hiking matters #348: Vall de Nuria Hiking - GR-11 to Queralbs
Hiking matters #349: Hiking in beautiful Montserrat, Spain
Hiking matters #350: Outdoor shops in Barcelona, Spain
Pictures in PinoyMountaineer Facebook page

MONTSERRAT, SPAIN - This is my last full day here in Spain and I am very happy that I managed to do one final trek - up and around the rocky peaks of Montserrat mountain (1236m). This mountain sanctuary has a rich history dating back to the Medieval period, and its monastic and cultural traiditions continue today - as evidenced the singing of choirboys and the showcase of great works of art: Picasso, El Greco, and Dali in the basilica, Santa Maria de Montserrat. It is easily of one the crown jewels of Catalonia.

I was joined by Miku Sato (佐藤未来), a Japanese girl I met in Barcelona. From Plaça Catalunya at 0800H, we took the train and then the funicular to Montserrat - the combined roundtrip ticket cost 17.90 EUR. While the train ride was unremarkable, the funicular trip was breathtaking, as it ascended several hundred meters. When we arrived at the terminal, the feeling was ! It was sanctuary, fortress, village, and mountain all at the same time.

There was a choice between climbing the highest spire in the mountain, called Sant Jeroni, or hiking around the mountain through a section of the GR-4. I opted for the latter option, for several reasons. Among them, the fact that it was cloudy and we will not be able to have the famed views of Barcelona and even Mallorca. Moreover, considering the cultural heritage or Monserrat, we wanted to see as much of it as we could Finally, the previous hikes in Vall de Nuria taught me that sometimes a section hike can be more rewarding than peakbagging.

Though steep at times, the trek felt like a walk through the gardens of Mt. Olympus. The approach of summer, with its blooms of varicolored flowers, made it very enchanting, and the view is ¡Estupendo! We could see the surrounding towns and even the faint blur which is Barcelona. The towering peaks, each with its unique contours. As we trekked, they changes their configurations relative to each other - creating novel views at every turn.

We climbed further until we reached the Refuge de Sant, where some local youths have camped out. According to them, Montserrat is really a popular destination for Catalonians, and I could see the reasons why. We pressed further until we reached some very nice viewpoints, but decided to press further as we wanted to still see the Basilica, and have a nice meal in the restaurant beside it. So here I am now at the train station, about to head back to Barcelona. Farewell, beautiful Montserrat!

PinoyMountaineer thanks Miku-san for joining him in this memorable adventure!

HIKING IN CATALONIA, SPAIN
Hiking mattters #345: Trekking in Tarragona, Spain
Hiking matters #346: Vall de Nuria Hiking - Puigmal
Hiking matters #347: Vall de Nuria Hiking - Pic de l'Aliga
Hiking matters #348: Vall de Nuria Hiking - GR-11 to Queralbs
Hiking matters #349: Hiking in beautiful Montserrat, Spain
Hiking matters #350: Outdoor shops in Barcelona, Spain
Pictures in PinoyMountaineer Facebook page

The highlight of my Europe trip, as far as hiking is concerned, is my hike up Puigmal, located in the French-Spanish border, at 2913 MASL one of the highest peaks of the Eastern Pyrenees. It is dayhikable from Vall de Nuria and is also a possible leg of a multi-day hike as it is near the GR-11 and many other trails.

From Barcelona's Placa de Catalunya, I took a train to Ribes de Freser (7.50 EUR), then the cremallera to Vall de Nuria (free with a hotel booking) - in all taking about three hours. Then I left some of my things at the Hotel Vall de Nuria, where I booked a one night stay before starting my hike. There are many routes up Puigmal, but I just followed the most straightforward ascent. I met many hikers both ascending and descending the mountain.

The seasonal flavor of the mountain was very palpable - be it in the form of flowers in bloom, or the thawing ice causing a surge in the rivers downstream. Some parts of the trail were still covered with snow, which I found nice as it reminded me of my Hokkaido hikes a year ago - at about the same season. I like the start of the hike, which featured some rather small conifers which were also in bloom, replete with pine cones.

As I climbed higher, the other peaks surrounded the Valley of Nuria emerged, magnificent with their slivers of snow and rock. Notable among them were the twin Pic de Noucreus (2799m) and Pic de la Fossa del Gegant (2801m), where the main trail of GR-11 passes through; as well as Puig de Fontnegra (2722m), Pic de d'Aliga (2428m), and Torreneules (2711m). The possibilities up and around these peaks are infinite!

Eventually I reached a plateau, then a stream that was part-frozen, part-flowing; from there, the ascent was continuous up a scree slope of an endless heap of granite rock, which seems to be a common feature of a lot of peaks outside the tropics. It started to get cold with the wild chill, but the sun kept the temperature just fine - some were even wearing just shorts and shirts.

Finally, the cross that marks the summit and the border between France and Spain appeared. Up until that time, I wasn't sure whether it was already Puigmal that was upon me, or some 'peak of deception'. But it was a great relief to successfully reach the mountain I aimed for. What followed was a more relaxed descent; I took my time taking pictures of the flowers del valle, and a nice dinner - tapas y cava - awaited me at the Hotel Vall de Nuria.

A day after my Puigmal hike, I decided to do one more hike in Vall de Núria before returning to Barcelona. I was pressed for time since I wanted to be in Barcelona later in the afternoon with enough time to walk around the La Rambla, which the poet Loarca famously described as the only street he wished 'would never end'. Since it is summer, the sun does not set until 2200H - which is perfect for tourists, locals, and hikers alike.

With these constraints in mind I settled for Pic de l'Aliga, a relatively 'minor' peak compared to its neighbors. At 2428 MASL, it would be a relaxing morning hike but it has its unique features as well: It overlooks the gorge that leads to the valley, and is a great vantage point for the other peaks of the area.

From Vall de Nuria, I took the telecabina (cable car) to the Pic de l'Aliga youth hostel. From there, I took the trail that led to Pic de l'Aliga, which it initially shared with the trail to Torreneules, a taller mountain nearby. The trail was very similar to that of Puigmal, except that there was neither snow nor ice this time around.

It took less than two hours for me to reach the summit, so it is very much like a Maculot or a Batulao hike, in terms of difficulty. It was very cold when I was at the peak so I donned my down jacket, and took some pictures of the cross and the vicinity before descending.

On my way back, as I approached the youth hostel, a herd of horses passed through - what an amazing sight to see them roam freely!

A waterfall cascades down the sheer cliffs of the Gorges de Nuria

Back at the Hotel Vall de Nuria from Pic de l'Aliga, I was ready to take the train to Ribes de Freser when I realized that since I still have enough time, I can actually walk to another train station - in the village of Queralbs - instead of taking the train. One added motivation was the fact that the trek actually comprised a section of the Spanish GR-11, one of the Grande Randonnée or Gran Recorrido long-distance trails in Europe.

My decision was not a mistake, because the trek turned out to very beautiful, even more than my two Nuria hikes! I half-wished that the trail would never end! (Actually, it goes on and on but it is I who have to head back to Barcelona).

Queralbs is around 1200 MASL and Nuria is around 1900 MASL; the trail was thus largely a descending one, which made it all the more of a relaxation for me, almost a cool down walk. The trail proper was marked by red and white blazes.

Most of the time, the trail was in the middle of a gorge - the Gorges de Nuria - with a beautiful stream below, and flowers all over. Occasionally, there were even some waterfalls - doubtless fortified by the thawing snow upstream - making it even more scenic.

There were some steep descents, as when I had to go down almost to the level of the river to cross the other side of the gorge. There were also some variants of the trail, but I chose the conventional one, since it was the course of the GR-11. After two and a half hours, I found myself walking along the nice houses of the village of Queralbs, and then the train station. What a short but sweet bonus hike!

Peter Tuazon climbing Mt. Hood, Oregon in 2010

by Gideon Lasco

It is hard to be away from home, but we Filipinos have an intrepid spirit that has taken us in all the corners of the world, in search for a better life for ourselves and our families. For whatever reason - to study, to work, to be with loved ones or to travel and experience the many wonders of our planet - more than a tenth of our population - millions of our countrymen - are spread across the globe. Many more are born abroad - citizens elsewhere but still inexorably Filipino. This is part and parcel of our contemporary situation as a nation.

Many mountaineers are part of this global Filipino community. I know this because I have met some of you in my own journeys, corresponded with you online, and I have seen your pictures - whether in snowy peaks of Alaska or desert hills of Arabia. Whether you are in Singapore looking at the next Malaysia peak to climb, in the US looking for the next national park to visit, or in Japan looking at train timetables to craft your next itinerary, it warms my heart to see my kababayans exploring the world. And I write to you to express my support to what you are doing.

Nicolas Villareal and fellow Pinoy hikers in Northern Italy

When you climb, and indeed when you form clubs or groups of Pinoys to climb mountains, you reaffirm your belongingness to a community of Filipinos who love the outdoors. You have never really left us. And when you bring our flag to the peaks of this world, you join the chorus of a proud song, one that sings of our determination to be free. let the mountains be our arena of standing proud with the rest of world. Let no one look down on any Filipino, let alone when he is standing on the summit!

There is also an educational value in climbing mountains, and I see this as important because we have much to learn from other countries. Definitely we will have our own national destiny and I am against the glorification of things just because they are abroad. Not all imported goods are good, but some are - and we have to absorb the best of what they can offer us. The way nations treat their national parks, their trails, their mountains- these should give us ideas on how to protect and preserve our own mountains.

Sonny Ongkiko exploring Malham Cove, Yorkshire Dales, United Kingdom

Also, by making friends with fellow climbers from other countries, we are able to build friendships that will in a larger scale translate to a better image for our country . It is not the flag that represents our country, but our own selves. This should be a challenge to everyone who climbs abroad: whatever you do will be a reflection of our nation.

Whenever I meet Filipinos abroad, one of the questions I ask is this: What do you miss the most in the Philippines? In Nepal, some of the Pinays spoke of how sorely they miss daing (dried fish); others spoke lovingly of adobo, of the funny commercials, the beaches, and many more things that make up our culture and our land. For a Filipino mountaineer, I'm sure you will miss our very own mountains, because they are the cradles of our adventurous spirits, and homes of our memories. To those Filipinos who have never seen their homeland, and have never seen our mountains, perhaps there is a longing for you to come home and climb the peaks of our homeland.

Sonia Auld at the summit of Rendezvous Peak, Alaska

But there are mountains out there, too, with their own beauty. Indeed, there is no point arguing about which is better, the Philippine mountains or those abroad. Comparison means little in a world where the really important things are incomparable. A more important virtue is the ability to appreciate all forms of beauty. So, may you find beauty in the seasons as they come and go, in the snow and ice, as well as the rocks and rain, the sands, the heat and the cold.

I am confident that Rizal, too, hiked abroad, for in Chapter 6 of Noli Me Tangere, Ibarra says, reminiscing about his stay in Europe:

A veces me perdia por los senderos de las montañas...
(Sometimes when I wander in the trails of the mountains...)

Surely he learned something from those wanderings! Whatever it is that you learn, wherever you are, may you always have the country in mind and in heart.

To all the Filipinos abroad who continue to climb mountains in all the corners of the world: I salute you. Keep climbing, and carry our flag with pride!

Gideon Lasco
Los Banos, Laguna
June 26, 2013

The blogger at the summit of Pic de l'Aliga at the Spanish Pyrenees

Today, almost five years after I first did the Mt. Cristobal Traverse (see Hiking matters #37) and drew up the itinerary for what was then a rarely-done climb, I had the opportunity to revisit the traverse trail, starting from Dolores, Quezon and descending to what has become the more common exit point - Brgy. Tala in Rizal, Laguna. I was joined by my Mt. Elbrus teammates Del Bahena, Niel Dagondon, Cynthia Jobo, Jacob Sarreal, and Everest climber Carina Dayondon, as well as Ivan Lakwatsero and mountain neophyte Elijah dela Calzada.

The day never promised to be a sunny one, with the approach of tropical storm Goryo, but Cristobal is a good choice for rainy season hikes. Its expansive forest cover protects it from winds and keeps the soil largely intact and rarely muddied. Moreover, there is no expectation of scenic views that can be ruined by clouds; in fact, the fog in the crater area can make it appear more mystical. Finally, unlike Mt. Makiling, it is limatik-free, making it more preferable to those who want to avoid our slimy little friends.

After dropping by Lito my longtime guide in Banahaw and Cristobal in Brgy. Kinabuhayan (his new number is 09214647618), we started trekking near the Montelibano's house at 0735H - the jumpoff has moved up because of the near-complete cement road access from Brgy. Sta. Lucia, Dolores. At the house, we registered and paid P10/person. From there we entered the forest, which has remained intact and in good condition through the years. It is a straightforward ascent, thoroughly verdant, until you reach the rim of the old crater, which has some narrow portions.

By 1000H, we had reached the crater campsite, with its swamp-like 'crater lake' that serves as the main landmark of the hike. We then headed up the saddle campsite, with its beautiful array of trees that evoke the grandeur of the Tawangan Trail. From there, we wiggled through the dense foliage of cogon and shrubs to reach Jones Peak, where, on a clear day, we would have seen the Seven Lakes of San Pablo and much of Laguna province. This time around, though, we only had the colors white and gray.

From Jones Peak, the descent is steep for a good 200 meters, until it becomes more gradual. Once very narrow and enmeshed in rattan and other noxious plants, the trail is now quite established, with the rattan largely relegated to the peripheries of the trail. Thus I can say that it has become easier than five years ago, but still challenging and exciting. This trend of difficult trails getting easier through the years is a natural phenomenon and is also very obvious in the way the Maktrav has become more and more manageable as time goes by.

The entire descent calls for an altitude loss of 900 meters, but this is quickly accomplished in what is again a straightforward trail going down. Tropical forest eventually gives way to banana plots and grasslands - a sign that Tayak Hill is at hand. Somewhere in those grassy slopes lie the bifurcation between the San Pablo (left) and Rizal (right) trails; this time we went for Rizal. What eluded us in Jones Peak - views of the lakes - became visible at this point, together with Mt. Makiling (NW), Mt. Malipunyo and even a sliver of Mt. Maculot (W).

At the end of the trail, there is a rough road that doubles as a Via Crucis-cum-local tourist attraction. There was the choice to visit Tayak Hill, which used to be (and probably still is) a destination in itself. But with advertisements of politicians and commercial establishments alike surrounding the trail, it was not a pleasant sight and we decided to skip it. Instead, we decided to have late lunch in San Pablo, before going home.

Mt. Cristobal Traverse was once a major climb but five years can see a lot of changes happen in a mountain. Like I said earlier, it is now possible to drive all the way to the vicinity of Montelibano's house, moving the trailhead further up the mountain and cutting down trekking time by at least 30 minutes. The trails are also much easier now. Hence, Cristobal Traverse has become a very doable dayhike, very similar to Maktrav, and just as highly recommended!

Thanks to everyone who joined this trek! Pictures are courtesy of Ivan Cultura (www.ivanlakwatsero.com).

PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MT. CRISTOBAL

Hiking matters #81: Survival in Cristobal (2004)

Hiking matters #37: Cristobal crossover (2008)

Hiking matters #74: Cristobal, one of my favorite dayhikes (2010)
Hiking matters #182: A dayhike up Mt. Cristobal (2011)
Hiking matters #351: Mt. Cristobal traverse dayhike (2013)

List of mountains I have climbed in 2013. As of July 1, 2013, I have done 25 hikes, 19 in the Philippines, 1 in Taiwan, and 5 in Spain, with five major climbs: the Ugo-Pulag Traverse; the first expedition to Mt. Ragang at the Piapayungan Range, the highest mountain in ARMM; an Akiki-Tawangan Traverse of Mt. Pulag; Cilai Ridge in Taiwan, and Mt. Halcon in Oriental Mindoro.

01/16 Mt. Batulao 324
01/20 Mt. Ugo-Mt. Pulag Traverse 320321322323
02/02 Mt. Batolusong 325
02/07 Manabu Peak 326
02/16 Mt. Maculot Rockies 328
02/28 Imoc Hill 335
02/23 Mt. Tangisan, Bungkol Baka, Kawayan 327
03/02 Osocan Spanish Trail 330
03/02 Mt. Timbak 331
03/04 Pongas & Tap-ew Falls River Trekking, Sagada 332
03/20 Mt. Batulao 329
03/30 Mt. Timolan, Zamboanga del Sur 334
04/04 Mt. Ragang, ARMM 333
04/07 Mt. Maculot Rockies 336
04/21 Mt. Pulag via Akiki-Tawangan 337338
05/01 Mt. Kalisungan-Atimla Traverse 339
05/07 Cilai Ridge, Taiwan 340341
05/25 Mt. Makiling via Sto. Tomas 342
05/28 Mt. Halcon 343344
06/13 Camins de Tarragona, Spain 345
06/16 Puigmal, France-Spain Border 346
06/17 Pic de l'Aliga, Spain 347
06/17 GR-11 Nuria-Queralbs, Spain 348
06/18 GR-4 Montserrat, Spain 349
06/29 Mt. Cristobal Traverse 351

GIDEON LASCO'S CLIMBING LOG

2013 Climbing Log
2012 Climbing Log

2011 Climbing Log

2010 Climbing Log

2009 Climbing Log

2008 Climbing Log

2007 Climbing Log

I am pleased to announce the release of the Shirt no. 12 series, which features immortal lines from such outdoor legends as John Muir, the American wilderness advocate and essayist extraordinaire; and Sir Edmund Hillary, the first to climb Mt. Everest.

It is John Muir who said: "The mountains are callling, and I must go," which succintly captures the mystical allure of nature, and the relationship between mountain and man. This is the theme of Shirt no. 12.1, "The Mountains are Calling", which features an illustration of a man similar to how Muir himself would have looked like in those beautiful national parks, which he helped establish.

Meanwhile, Sir Edmund Hillary's most famous quote: "It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves," reaffirms the physical, mental, and spiritual nature of hiking; and that what makes mountaineering so powerful is not humans going on mountaintops, but humans rising above our own limitations. This is the theme of Shirt 12.2, "It is not the mountain we conquer", which juxtaposes the classic image of Sir Hillary with the Himalayan peaks.

In the Philippines, these shirts are available at The Perfect White Shirt branches in major malls Metro Manila - Trinoma, Alabang Town Center, Robinson's Place Manila, Market Market, Glorietta 3, and Robinson's Place Magnolia. (see this link for more details). They are also available for FREE SHIPPING WITHIN THE PHILIPPINES for a minimum of three shirts!

The shirts are also available for international shipping! Shipping costs vary depending on your location, but the shirt prices are the same (PHP 350). Email shirts@pinoymountaineer.com for more details or send a message on Facebook.

For more details and inquiries feel free to contact +639178868797 or +6327389448.

You can also check out the earlier editions of our hiking shirts in the PinoyMountaineer numbered series:

PINOYMOUNTAINEER NUMBERED SHIRTS

Shirt no.1: Don't change the mountain
Shirt no. 2: Take nothing but pictures
Shirt no. 3: I love the mountains
Shirt no. 4: Hike
Shirt no. 5: It's more fun in the Philippine mountains
Shirt no. 6: For the love of hiking
Shirt no. 7: Get High
Shirt no. 8: Mountaineer
Shirt no. 9.1: Stop Dreaming, Start Climbing
Shirt no. 9.2: Mind Over Mountain
Shirt no. 9.3: Hike For Life
Shirt no. 10: Leave No Trace
Shirt no. 11: Taong Bundok

At Biak-na-Bundok in the middle of the Manabu-Malipunyo Traverse
with Susong Dalaga Peak at the background

The Malipunyo Range - also known as the Malarayat Range - is full of possibilities, which is both a blessing and a curse. It is a curse because its endless trails and numerous entry points have caused many a hiker to get lost. In 2008, I ended up climbing the wrong peak, Mt. Palamigan instead of Mt. Malipunyo's summit, because of a wrong turn we committed early in the hike (see Hiking matters #3). Funnily, this misadventure of mine ended up as an anecdote in various sermons in America! Every so often, some hikers get rescued in the range, most recently Joey Vergara, who got caught in a wild boar trap. Fortunately, none of these incidents have been fatal.

It is a blessing because the range provides plenty of adventures. Manabu Peak (760m), one of its constituent peaks, is a popular hiking destination, not only for its garden-like summit campsite but also for Mang Pirying and his delicious coffee. The summit itself of Mt. Malipunyo is a more challenging hike, but easily manageable as a dayhike. In one of my most memorable hikes in the range, Sky Biscocho took us to his river trekking traverse from Brgy. Talisay, Lipa to Brgy. Atisan, San Pablo. ""I loved every moment of the climb," I said of that hike, which lasted over 10 hours (see Hiking matters #192).

One thing I've always wanted to do was the traverse from Manabu Peak to Malipunyo, until yesterday, when I finally had a chance to do so, with my Halcon buddies Koi Grey and Daryl Comagon. We arrived at the Sulok trailhead at 0750H where our guide Kuya Mario (09994106990) was waiting, and we started trekking at 0805H.

The ascent to Manabu Peak was quite straightforward, and I've written about it in many previous hikes. Of course we didn't miss the coffee break at Mang Pirying's place (thank you, Mang Tino for the warm welcome, as always)...it's one of the highlights of the Malipunyo Range! We were at the summit of Manabu Peak by 0930H and just spent a few minutes there before backtracking a bit and taking the trail to Malipunyo.

The foliage in this trail is much denser than that of the Manabu trail but it was surprisingly well-established. Part woodland, part grassland, there was the inevitable teka-teka and lipa that made daydreaming difficult while trekking. It was a cloudy day with occasional rain, which made the trail also a bit muddy. We were at the forested Maraduhan Peak by 1000H, and then proceeded through more of the same kind of trail.

Up next was Biak-na-Bundok peak, which I would say is the most scenic of them all. It is foreshadowed by a dense grassland, which gives way into some open slopes that offer glimpses of Laguna and Batangas mountains, including Maculot (W) and Makiling (N). According to Mario, this peak is so named because it was literally a mountain that was cleaved, during the Marcos era, to build a road which would have connected Lipa and San Pablo.

From Biak-na-Bundok to Malipunyo summit, we had to descend a bit to reach the 'Treehouse', which, as hikers find out, is a misnomer. Then, a 400-meter altitude gain is required to finally reach the summit, which we reached at 1215H (I love the up-and-downs of the hike!). We rested briefly (thanks to the two hikers who shared their trail food!) and enjoyed the view of Maculot. Only the ruins of the cross that was once put up remains.

From there, Brgy. Talisay was at hand with a quick descent and we walked for a couple kilometers using a rough road to return to the trailhead at Sulok, completing the loop of what was a fantastic dayhike! After the hike, we proceeded to Tanauan, Batangas to visit Sky Biscocho, and we were glad to see that he is recovering quickly from his illness. The trail master smiled when we told him that we had just climbed Malipunyo. Let me end this post with a throwback of my climb with Sky himself two years ago:

PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MALIPUNYO RANGE
Hiking matters #3: Oops, wrong mountain!
Hiking matters #80: For the love of coffee and fresh mountain air

Hiking matters #165: Manabu Peak and Mang Pirying
Hiking matters #192: Malipunyo river trekking traverse

Hiking matters #216: Maculot and Manabu Peak in one day

Hiking matters #279: Twin Dayhikes II in Manabu Peak
Hiking matters #326: Manabu Peak revisited
Hiking matters #352: Manabu Peak to Malipunyo traverse

The wide, short, exposed, and scenic main trail of Mt. Balagbag

Mt. Balagbag, at the border of Rodriguez, Rizal and San Jose del Monte, Bulacan, is one of the mountains closest to Metro Manila, and the ease of the trail per se makes it an excellent hike for beginners. The horrendous traffic in the Fairview-Lagro area, however, can subvert its physical distance, while the sun exposure can obscure its ease. I first climbed this little peak in 2011 (see Hiking matters #155) and today had the opportunity to do it a second time with GMA News TV's Sport Pilipinas and C.O.R.E Philippines' Ms. Tin Villaflor.

The purpose of the hike was actually not to reach the summit, but to do a feature about why climbing mountains is a healthy activity for everyone. But since it was just a short hike, with the summit reachable within an hour, we decided to go for it anyway. Last time, we did a pseudo-traverse and ended up in a steep trail where we witnessed some logs being transported. And I know there are a lot of other possibilities, in conjunction with nearby Mt. Maranat or via other trails.

The real challenge with Balagbag, however, is the intense heat made possible by the completely exposed, open trail. Fortunately when we hiked it was partly cloudy, giving us occasional respites from the sun. This open-ness of the trail on the other hand makes Balagbag an excellent viewpoint for Mt. Arayat, the Mariveles Range, the expanse of the Sierra Madre, and even the Southern Tagalog mountains - I saw a glimpse of Maculot, almost 100 kilometers away!

I enjoyed this second Balagbag hike more than the first - it was just too hot during that summer day in 2011! I think the mountain can be a good hike for a beginner as long as he/she is prepared for the heat. As for those with more experience, I think the nearby mountains deserve more attention - for longer, worthier hikes, with the hope that illegal logging and security issues won't be as much a concern as it was in the past.

TERSKOL, RUSSIA - Before we headed to Russia to make our ongoing attempt to climb Mt. Elbrus, we stopped by Hong Kong for two days, and we had the opportunity to climb Ma On Shan, which was recommended to me by several friends including Steve White of Action Asia, who graciously met with our group when we went outdoor shopping in Mong Kok.

For our Ma On Shan hike, we were fortunate to be accompanied by Joel, Mon, and Blossom of the HK-based Filipino Mountaineers Society. We met up in Ma On Shan MTR station, took a cab to the Ma On Shan barbecue park, then started trekking. We followed Joel's recommendation of doing a loop hike, starting and ending at the same point.

This loop hike initially passed through rough roads and really well-established, wide foot trails. I was so happy that the loop hike passes by a good section of HK's famed Maclehose Trail, from Pyramid Hill to Ma On Shan! We were trekking from 500-600 masl with a scenic view of the cities and coastlines of HK.

We passed by a ridgeline and went up and down four small peaks and it was very much reminiscent of Mt. Batulao. It was sometimes hot, sometimes windy, and oftentimes humid, with nik-nik and flying ants to make the hike more interesting. At the end of the 5 hour hike I was filled with the realization that HK has a lot to offer and I hope I can come back for more. Thanks Joel, Mon, and Blossom and the Mt. Elbrus team for this wonderful hike!

TERSKOL, RUSSIA - Today we took the plane from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody, Russia and then tot the village of Terskol to commence our Mt. Elbrus expedition. I am joined by ten other Filipinos in our bid to climb Europe's highest peak and one of the Seven Summits.

The drive from Mineralnye Vody was scenic, revealing the vast plains that evoke this part of the world, and then Baksan valley, upon which mountains gradually revealed themselves. Here we are surrounded by pine foreats and snowy peaks, and at 2057 masl it feels very good.

We will be doing our first acclimatization hike tomorrow and I'm hoping that we will be blessed with good weather and enough strength for the days to come!

TERSKOL, RUSSIA - Today we did our first acclimatization hike, ascending over 900 meters up the ridgeline in Mt. Terskol, which measured 2981 MASL in my altimeter. The weather was great, and we managed to have a glimpse of Mt. Elbrus itself, glacier white and majestic.

The trail was actually a rough road that leads to an astronomical observatory, so it would be akin to the trail of Mt. Batulao or parts of Mt. Ugo. Its particular beauty, however, derives from the alpine peaks that surround it, and the floral ensemble that summer brings.

Now we are back in our hotel in Terskol, where we will spend the night before heading to Mt. Elbrus tomorrow! I pray that we will be granted good weather, safety, and success in this expedition.

MT. ELBRUS BASECAMP (3915 MASL) - Today we commenced the expedition proper by taking three ski lifts - two cable cars and one chair lift - taking us from Terskol at 2057 MASL to around 3800 MASL. Then, we trekked our way through the snow to reach a bunkhouse complex at 3915 MASL, which will serve as our basecamp throughout the expedition. Finally from the bunkhouse we did a short acclimatization hike, surpassing 4100 MASL, and afterwards I did my own mini-hike, with crampons this time, reaching 4000 MASL.

We experienced some light rain and snow - but the weather was altogether pleasant. The temperature did not go below freezing but the wind was moderate, so I'd say that it was, wind chill-wise, subzero. The hike itself is quite straightforward: just go up the slopes, follow the guide (or the footsteps)

Here we are assigned rectangular bunkers with metal exteriors that each can house 8 persons. There is a latrine perched on a cliff, and there is also a special bunkhouse that serves as both kitchen and dining room. The food has been excellent so far - native dishes with a touch of customization: they served rice instead of pasta to go with the stuffed bell pepper. Yesterday we had curd for breakfast and there were some others.

This day gave me an added boost of confidence, having done some hiking in Elbrus itself and seeing my gear work out just fine. Most of the gear I'm using now are those that I already tried in Kilimanjaro and Stok Kangri, including my trusted Columbia Bugaboo parka and a Columbia outer shell that I use all the time.

A significant addition is a pair of Asolo Granite GTX mountaineering boots that I am using for the first time. Ma On Shan in Hong Kong was my belated breaking-in hike but I know that ideally I should have done it much earlier - unfortunately it very hard to procure boots coming from the Philippines! Anyway there were some sore points in my feet when we walked in Moscow so I was a bit worried. Fortunately though, today it worked very well! My Camp crampons and ice axe also seem to be promising in terms of compatibility with me.

The complexity of all the gear required pose one or the initial challenges in high-altitude climbing. The financial aspect of it is daunting enough, but what I did was to do it bit by big, accumulating gear throughout the years. A sustained pursuit of the sport, I think, make the items worth buying, and I have high hopes for the Asolo as well as my other new climbing gear, including a Patagonia ultralight down jacket recommended to me by my American friend Chris, and black

What remains unclear now is whether my clothes can withstand the cold come summit day.

Of course a big determinant of that is the weather, and I have been concerned about it in the past few days because some people I know had a failed attempt because of the weather. Our guide refuses to answer my meteorological inquiries, instead giving a standard, laconic answer: "I don't know". The forecasts point to some gloom in the next two days, and some promise afterwards, but this is up to God and all I can do is do my very best and put all my heart in this climb.

MT. ELBRUS EXPEDITION 2013
Hiking matters #354: Training climb - Ma On Shan in Hong Kong
Hiking matters #355: The start of our Mt. Elbrus climb
Hiking matters #356: First acclimatization hike - Mt. Terskol
Hiking matters #357: Mt. Elbrus basecamp and beyond
Hiking matters #358: To the Pastuchov rocks
Hiking matters #359: First summit attempt - Aborted!
Hiking matters #360: Successful and dramatic ascent of Mt. Elbrus

MT. ELBRUS BASECAMP (3915 MASL) - Today our team headed up the trail to Mt. Elbrus, reaching past 4500 MASL, as our final acclimatization hike. Wearing crampons, mountaineering boots, two layers of clothes, balaclavas, and ski goggles, we performed the hike which lasted a good six hours or so. We started at 0900H, in good weather.

We had occasional splendid views of the two-headed Elbrus, though for the most part we had limited visibility during our hike. It was basically straightforward: just hiking up the slopes that vary in incline but fairly monotonous. The snow was mostly soft but sometimes there are sections of ice where the crampons become useful.

Two members of our team decided to withdraw from the summit attempt, due to the sheer physical demands of the mountain. Though sad about their decision, I understand it; this whole journey has been experience enough for all of us and I am only thankful that I still have strength for the days to come. Anyway tomorrow is a rest day and hopefully it improves our acclimatization: 5642 MASL is still a big leap from where we are.

MT. ELBRUS BASECAMP (3915 MASL) - We were all set to go and reach for the summit, and I had put on all the layers but a snowstorm - fierce winds and heavy snow - was upon us and we had no choice but to turn back. I am disappointingly back in my bunk bed, instead of climbing to 5642 MASL. Meanwhile the bad weather has not abated and it continues to snow.

But I am also grateful for the experience. It is easy for a mountaineer to be overconfident, especially when successes come in succession. But setbacks teach us humility, which is a far grander virtue. Those thirty minutes upon a snowstorm reminded me that God has his own plan, and I can only be grateful that we have a second chance tomorrow.

The notion of 'second chance' is a very powerful one for imperfect beings as ourselves. Medicine, for instance, is all about giving people a second chance - to get back to their work, their family; to live meaningful, fulfilling, happy lives. In Christianity we see Christ as the second chance for humanity's redemption. I will have the whole day to contemplate about these things.

As for our team, tomorrow we have a second chance and I hope things will work out and we will still reach the summit. The chances, our guide says, are slim and we will have a window of only 9.5 hours to ascend and and go back to the Pastuchov rocks where the snowcat can take us back to the basecamp. Whatever happens, I will humbly accept whatever God has in store for us.

MT. ELBRUS EXPEDITION 2013
Hiking matters #354: Training climb - Ma On Shan in Hong Kong
Hiking matters #355: The start of our Mt. Elbrus climb
Hiking matters #356: First acclimatization hike - Mt. Terskol
Hiking matters #357: Mt. Elbrus basecamp and beyond
Hiking matters #358: To the Pastuchov rocks
Hiking matters #359: First summit attempt - Aborted!
Hiking matters #360: Successful and dramatic ascent of Mt. Elbrus

MANILA - The PinoyMountaineer Mt. Elbrus Expedition 2013 has ended with a successful and safe climb, with our group of eleven Filipinos ascending Mt. Elbrus via the normal route from July 15-20, 2013. Four members of the team - me, Koko Roura, Jacob Sarreal, and Carina Dayondon, reached the summit, West Summit (5642m), at 1025H Moscow time (1425H Manila time) on July 20, 2013; five others - Cynthia Sy, Niel Dagondon, Edmund Padua, Jun Carnate, and Farah Pasamonte reached the Saddle (5300m).

Mt. Elbrus, at 5642 MASL the highest mountain in Europe, is the second of the Seven Summits I have reached, after Mt. Kilimanjaro in December 2011. I will be blogging about the climb from Hiking matters #355-350 in the coming days, and will be posting more pictures in the PM Facebook site. I thank C.O.R.E., Columbia Sportswear, Black Diamond, and R.O.X. Philippines for the gear and clothing that I used in the expedition, for GMA News TV for featuring the climb, and for everyone who supported us in the expedition!

It almost never happened, and when it did, we were filled with such delight that even our stiff, reserved Russian guide was hugging us in congratulations. But reaching the summit, as they say, is just half the journey and the way down was another struggle, and thus the final relief came only much later when we were safely back in our hotel.

The odds were clearly against us. The day before, the weather was so bad that all groups - including ours - were forced to cancel any attempt to reach the summit. Like a fireworks display that never ignited, we were dressed up in the complex array of a mountaineer - crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and all - only to come face to face with the very real possibility that we may not reach the summit, not even get to try.

Twenty four hours - and countless rounds of pusoy dos later - at 0300H we were once again ready to go, with the same clothes, the same gear, the things inside our bags. But there was one major difference: This time, there were stars and we could see the faint outline of Elbrus against the night sky. We had a chance.

But the time was limited. The chair lifts - the only ordinary means of transport to the basecamp - operated only until 1500H, which meant that if we can start at 0430H, we only had around 10 hours to get up and down. The average time, our guide candidly admitted, to reach the summit, was 7-9 hours; and 3-4 hours to get down. As if to confirm our fears, he said: "It is unlikely that you will reach the summit."

Still, we didn't lose hope. There was nothing to lose in trying. As soon as the snowcat stopped and we started trekking at 4700 MASL, I knew that the only way to convince our guide that we can make it is by making a strong performance early on. And so we started the ascent at 0430H, with the slopes immediately steep and the air very cold - around -10 degrees Celsius.

Soon we were making good progress, and at first light we were already past 5000 MASL. My mantra as we were climbing: "take it one step at a time". With the extreme cold and mittens, I had limited mobility and my ski goggles were sometimes blurring out. Great was my relief when we finally reached the Saddle (5300 MASL) at 0810H - and the sun was finally upon us, bringing warmth. Amazingly, the guide offered a 10-minute rest, which meant that he had some confidence that we actually had time to summit!

From the Saddle, however, the trails became steeper and we really had to rely on our crampons to keep us from falling down the slopes. The air was also palpably thinner, though fortunately I didn't feel headache or any symptom of altitude sickness. We pressed on, even as the trail seemed endless at times. To add to the suspense, there was a roped segment that made us of our harnesses.

Finally, after much struggle - at 1010H the summit was visible to us and at 1025H Moscow time (1425H Philippine time) we reached the summit of Mt. Elbrus - the highest peak in Europe! With me were Dr. Koko Roura, Coby Sarreal, and Carina Dayondon, who was on her third Seven Summits peak. Still mindful of the time pressure and wanting to hang out with strong winds at the top (~35 kph), we started the descent after just a few minutes at the summit.
Only when we were going down did we realize how much energy we expended on our way up, and we felt the fatigue creeping in as we tried to beat the 1400H deadline set by our guide. Still, buoyed by the triumph of reaching the summit, we pressed on. We learned that the rest of the team performed well, reaching at least 5300 MASL before turning back. Had there not been any time limit, I'm confident that most, if not all of us, would have summitted.

Everything happened so quickly as soon as started heading down to basecamp. We quickly boarded the chairlifts, transported our bags to the two lower cable cars, and took the short ride to Terskol. It was a very long and tiring day, but one filled with action, excitement, and of course - gratitude, for a successful ascent. This experience will surely inspire me to pursue the challenges to come! Thank you, God, for giving us safety and success, and thank you to my team for your positive energy and determination!

MT. ELBRUS EXPEDITION 2013
Hiking matters #354: Training climb - Ma On Shan in Hong Kong
Hiking matters #355: The start of our Mt. Elbrus climb
Hiking matters #356: First acclimatization hike - Mt. Terskol
Hiking matters #357: Mt. Elbrus basecamp and beyond
Hiking matters #358: To the Pastuchov rocks
Hiking matters #359: First summit attempt - Aborted!
Hiking matters #360: Successful and dramatic ascent of Mt. Elbrus

I am pleased to announce that the following mountaineering and outdoor groups have been added to the PinoyMountaineer list of mountaineering and outdoor clubs in the Philippines as of August 2, 2013.

METRO MANILA / NCR

Akyat Baba Mountaineers (ABM)
Akyat Bahaw Gang Mountaineers
Avid Hikers Of Nature (AHON - PUP)
Centro Expeditioners (Guadalupe, Makati)
DAMO Mountaineers
Eureka Mountaineering Club (EMC, Quezon City)
Gecko Mountaineers (Q.C.)
Globe Adventure Club (GAC)
Green Forest Mountaineering Club (GFMC - Muntinlupa City)
Green Mountain Tribe (GMT)
In Conquest of Nature's Secret (ICONS)
Karagumoy Outdoors Gecko Mountaineer (Quezon City)
Liwaliw Outdoor Club (Eastwood)
Los Mochileros (Quezon City)
Malabon City Mountaineering Club (Malabon City)
Octagon Mountaineers (Muntinlupa City)
P.A.C.K.E.R.S. Mountaineering
Summit Outdoor Team (SOT)
The Adventures of Groups and Younghearts (TAG-AY)
Untouchables Mountaineer (South Metro Manila)
X'treme Trekkers Mountaineering Society, Inc. (X'MTSI)

LUZON, VISAYAS, MINDANAO

Acquire Memories, Breathe, Observe Nature (AMBON, Quezon Province)

Coalition of Low Impact Mountaineers and Backpackers (San Pedro, Laguna)

Malakat Outdoors (Cebu City)
Morion Mountaineers Santa Cruz Marinduque Inc.
Philippine Extraordinary Peaks and Isles Lovers (Southern Tagalog)
Sagoy Outdoor Club (Cebu City)
S.I.L.A.N.G SMS (Catanduanes)
Sugakod Mountaineers (Bohol)

Team Kumandok (Bacoor, Cavite)

Team Silayan (Trece Martires, Cavite)
Tropang K3K4 (Bulacan and Bataan)

SCHOOL-BASED ORGANIZATIONS

Camillian Outdoorsmen Group of Mountaineer (COGMO)
Philippine State College of Aeronautics Mountaineers (PSCAM, Pasay City)
Sinag Araw Mounbtaineers (SAM - FEU Manila)

Please resubmit your group if somehow I missed it out. If you submit your group, please give complete information and please give me time to add it! Don't get any ideas (i.e. maybe I don't like your group) because PinoyMountaineer.com is strictly neutral about groups and affiliations!

Everyone is invited to include their clubs/groups to this directory of mountaineering clubs by commenting on the category page where their club falls under. There are no requirements; just send in your group name, acronym, contact details, and URL.

Again, PinoyMountaineer.com is supportive of all mountaineering clubs and initiatives throughout the country, regardless of affiliation. Heads and officers of mountaineering clubs are invited to correspond with the blogger by emailing gideon@pinoymountaineer.com. Feel free to let us know about your events, and share with us your updates, discoveries, and destinations that are not yet in the website. More power to these mountaineering clubs. Happy climbing to all!

Hiking matters #350: Outdoor and hiking shops in Barcelona, Spain

Hiking matters #349: Hiking in beautiful Montserrat, Catalonia, Spain

Hiking matters #346: Vall de Nuria hiking - Puigmal, one of the highest peaks of the Eastern Pyrenees

Hiking matters #347: Vall de Núria hiking - Pic de l'Aliga (2428m) in the Eastern Pyrenees

Hiking matters #348: Vall de Núria hiking - Trekking the GR-11 from Nuria to Queralbs

Essay: An open letter to Filipino mountaineers abroad

Hiking matters #351: Mt. Cristobal traverse dayhike

Climbing Log 2013

New hiking shirts from PinoyMountaineer feature John Muir and Sir Edmund Hillary

Hiking matters #352: Manabu Peak to Malipunyo summit traverse dayhike

Hiking matters #353: Mt. Balagbag - a scenic, short, and easy dayhike from Manila

Hiking matters #354: Hiking in Hong Kong - Ma On Shan (馬鞍山) loop hike

Hiking matters #355: The beginning of our Mt. Elbrus climb

Hiking matters #356: Mt. Elbrus acclimatization hike - Mt. Terskol

Hiking matters #357: Mt. Elbrus basecamp - to the Barrels and beyond

Hiking matters #358: Up to the Pastuchov rocks as our final Mt. Elbrus acclimatization hike

Hiking matters #359: First summit attempt - aborted due to bad weather

PinoyMountaineer reaches Mt. Elbrus summit

Hiking matters #360: Successful and dramatic ascent of Mt. Elbrus

New additions to the list of mountaineering clubs in the Philippines (August 2013)